Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
3. Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route character: rock
6. Height difference: 1420 m

Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness: * wall section – 50° * entire route – 40°

7. Pitons left on the route: 7, including 7 bolted pitons; points used on the route: 149, including 7 stationary bolted pitons, of which 2 were used as artificial aids (AIDs); removable bolted pitons – 0, of which used as AIDs – 0; total artificial aids (AIDs) used – 3

8. Leader: Krasnov Dmitry Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports

   Team members: Kirichenko Ruslan Sergeyevich, Candidate Master of Sports, Polenov Dmitry Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports, Nagaev Rustem Raisovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Ershov Andrey Andreyevich, 1st sports category, Koltunov Oleg, 1st sports category, Kochegarova Irina, 1st sports category

9. Base camp location: Under the western wall of Bodkhona peak (wooden overnight stays)

10. Team's total climbing hours: 27.5 hours; 3 days

11. Departure to the route: 6:00 AM, July 27, 2005 Summit attainment: 8:00 AM, July 29, 2005 Return to base camp: 12:15 PM, July 29, 2005

Technical Photo of the Summit

Photo by Kochegarova I.

Fig. 1. Technical photo.

UIAA Scheme M 1:2000

Fig. 2.1. Scheme in UIAA symbols

• R15: 3/0 friend, III–IV, 50 m, 40°
• R14: 5/0 friend, IV, 30 m, 45°
• R13: 8/0 friend, V, 45 m, 70°
• R12: 5/0 friend, V, 45 m, 75°
• R11: 3/0 friend, I, 55 m, 10°
• R10: 3/0 friend, 4/0 pitons, V, 40 m, 65°
• R9: 4/0 friend, 5/0 stoppers, 2/0 pitons, III, 15 m, 45°; V, 20 m, 90°; IV, 20 m, 60°
• R8: 3/0 friend, 4/0 stoppers, IV, 50 m, 60°
• R7: 4/0 friend, 2/0 stoppers, IV, 45 m, 25°
• R6: 3/0 friend, III, 45 m, 45°
• R5: 4/0 friend, III, 45 m, 45°
• R4: 7/0 friend, 2/0 pitons, V, 40 m, 70°
• R3: 2/0 friend, 2/1 stoppers, V+, 4 m, 90°; A1, 4 m, 45°
• R2: 4/0 friends, I, 40 m, 20°
• R1: 2/0 friend, 1/0 ice screw, III, 45 m, 30°
• R0: 5/0 ice screws, II, 100 m, 50°

UIAA Scheme M 1:2000 (continued)

Fig. 2.1. Scheme in UIAA symbols (continued)

• R26: 4/0 ice screws, 5/0 stoppers, III–I, 1045 m, 33°
• R25: 3/0 friend, III, 30 m, 70°
• R24: 2/0 friend, 3/0 pitons, V, 10 m, 80°; I, 40 m, 40°
• R23: 2/0 friend, 3/0 stoppers, 3/0 pitons, 1/0 bolt, IV, 30 m, 70°; V, 20 m, 90°
• R22: 3/0 friend, 1/0 stopper, 1/0 piton, 2/2 "carrots", 1/0 bolt, V, 32 m, 75°; VI, A0, 13 m, 100°
• R21: 2/0 friend, 2/0 ice screws, III, 20 m, 30°
• R20: 4/0 friend, IV, 30 m, 30°
• R19: 5/0 friend, 2/0 stoppers, IV, 50 m, 15°
• R18: 3/0 friend, rappelling right, 30 m, 80°
• R17: 5/0 friend, 1/0 stoppers, III, 35 m, 40°
• R16: 4/0 friend, IV, 45 m, 65°

Ascent Graph

Section R1. Rope team Nagaev–Krasnov

Protocol

of the ascent to Bodkhona peak 5138 m via the Northwest counterfort (Gulnev's route) 5B category, completed from July 27 to 29, 2005, by a combined team from St. Petersburg within the framework of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship.

Base camp MATC "Vertikal–Alaudin"

August 8, 2005

Present:

• Kapitanov O.V. — senior coach.
• Leonov V.V. — head of the rescue training center FASIIL St. Petersburg.
• Arefyeva R.G. — head of the sports department MATC

Team:

• Krasnov D.Yu. — ascent leader;
• Koltunov O.S. — team member;
• Kochegarova I.V. — team member;
• Kirichenko R.S. — team member;
• Ershov A.A. — team member;
• Nagaev R.R. — team member;
• Polenov D.Yu. — coach.

Krasnov D.Yu.

The route is logical, saturated with complex wall climbing, and corresponds to the description obtained by us at MATC. Favorable weather conditions allowed the team to complete the route with minimal use of AIDs. The entire range of equipment recommended by consultants was used on the route. The tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up correctly and practically coincided with its actual implementation on all sections. Throughout the route, the team worked in harmony and reliability. The psychological climate within the team was excellent.

Kapitanov O.V. — "Who led on the wall sections? Route difficulty?"

Nagaev R.R.

I worked as the first on the wall part of the route. This is a strong 5B. We managed to complete the route before the onset of severe bad weather, but despite this, the actual conditions do not allow us to classify it as a purely rock route. On the wall part of the route, snow and ice are encountered quite frequently, even on key sections (R25, R26); even in the second half of the day, icy rocks are encountered, which is why it was easier to work in crampons throughout the second day (summer on a rock route!?); the ascent to the summit from the shoulder is half snow and ice terrain, and the descent from the shoulder is almost entirely (except for the first two rappels) on snow and ice. Considering the above, I believe it would be more objective to consider the route's character as combined. The team worked clearly. The leader coped with his duties. The route is very interesting from the point of view of practicing group interaction on various types of terrain and allows for good training before ascents of 6A category via the western wall of Bodkhona.

Leonov V.V. — "What are the physical and technical characteristics of the route?"

Kirichenko R.S.

For a rock route, there is quite a lot of ice and snow, which greatly complicates the passage of key sections. It's good that the possibility of such a turn of events was taken into account when preparing for the ascent.

Kochegarova I.V.

The physical load is significant, from this perspective, the ascent was difficult. Still, it's over 5000 m. The team did not experience technical difficulties. This is the result of intense training and preparation during the off-season. The team had a very favorable atmosphere.

Polenov D.Yu.

"I believe that the team worked clearly and harmoniously on the route."

Kapitanov O.V. — releasing official. The ascent was made in accordance with the Rules. The ascent and leadership are confirmed.

Arefyeva R.G.

"Congratulations to the team on a successful ascent. In accordance with the Regulations on the 2005 Russian Championship, the team must submit a report to the judging panel."

Kapitanov O.V. — senior coach Polenov D.Yu. — coach. Leonov V.V. Arefyeva R.G. Krasnov D.Yu. — leader.