Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class —
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, western wall.
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics

Height difference — 1000 m (wall section). Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. Length of sections:

• III difficulty category — 130 m
• IV difficulty category — 125 m
• V difficulty category — 480 m
• VI difficulty category — 471 m

6. Pitons driven: Rock: for belay — 247, for creating intermediate technical points (ITP) — 13. Ice: for belay — 0, for creating ITP — 0. Bolt: for belay — 0, for creating ITP — 1.
7. Number of climbing hours — 33.
8. Number of bivouacs — 2.
9. Yakovlev Gennadiy Semenovich — Candidate Master of Sports, leader Efimov Sergey Borisovich — Master of Sports Lebedikhin Aleksey Veniaminovich — Master of Sports Samoylin Mikhail Alekseyevich — Master of Sports Vinogradskiy Evgeniy Mikhailovich — Master of Sports Abramov Sergey Semenovich — Candidate Master of Sports
10. Team coach — Master of Sports Efimov S.B.
11. Date of departure on the route — July 13, 1979. Date of return — July 16, 1979.

Route Description

July 13 (preliminary route processing from 13:00 to 18:00). The starting point of the route is marked by a wide, snow- and ice-covered ledge at the base of the wall (left of the "bottle"). Access to the ledge is via несложными разрушенными скалами типа «бараньих лбов» (section R0–R1). From the ledge, the route proceeds left and upwards along smooth slabs (R1–R2) with a steepness of 80° (very few spots for piton placement) in the direction of a vertical chimney, which sometimes transitions into an internal corner, then back to a chimney, etc., and over more than 200 meters uniquely determines the group's direction of movement. After 20 m, the smooth slabs become less steep, dropping to 60°, and 35 m of movement in the same direction (R2–R3) lead to the base of the chimney. The initial section of the chimney is approximately 40 meters (R3–R4) and is completely vertical (in the middle of this section is a control cairn). Further, the chimney degenerates and transitions into a 10 m weakly expressed internal corner (R4–R5) with a steepness of 85°, followed by a 10-meter (R5–R6) vertical wall of 90° and a 5 m traverse under a meter-wide cornice (very difficult climbing). The cornice is bypassed on the right via a ladder on a 95° wall (R6–R7), and after 5 m of difficult climbing, we enter a 45-meter internal corner of 85° (R7–R8), narrowing at the top into a нависающий (95°) 5-meter chimney (R8–R9).

July 14 — Day one. Departure at 9:00. After passing the preliminarily processed section of the route, we enter an internal corner (R9–R10) of 35 m, which is climbed on the right part with a steepness of 80° on smoothed rocks with few holds. 2nd control point, further after difficult climbing on a 40-meter (R10–R11) wall (85°) — exit to a ledge. To the right below, a ledge is visible where the first ascenders organized a bivouac. From the ledge, movement is directly up a 30-meter 80° wall (R11–R12) (the second half of the wall becomes vertical). A bolt piton is driven. Movement in ladders is 5 m. Further, a 10-meter traverse to the right in the direction of a crack. Along the crack, 95° (R12–R13), movement is 5 m upwards using ladders, and then along a narrow ledge on a vertical wall, after 30 meters (R13–R14), we approach (by leaning out) the base of a large rock outcrop in the shape of a " mitten". The exit to the "mitten" is an internal corner of 20 m (90°), formed by the wall and the side wall of the "mitten" (R14–R15). Then, a ledge "finger of the mitten" and another 15 m up a нависающему камину 95° (R15–R16) to the top of the "mitten". (There is a little ice in the chimney).

19:00. Bivouac on top of the "mitten". Comfortable site. Below in the chimney, there is ice.

July 15 — Day two. Departure at 8:00. Movement directly upwards (R16–R17) along an internal corner (70 m) with a steepness of 80°, нависающему in the upper part from 95 to 100° over a length of 10 m (R17–R18). Further, over 40 m, there is some flattening to 85° (R18–R19) — (at this point, the route intersects with the route of V. Sidelnikov) and after overcoming a 3 m vertical (R19–R20) section, movement is to the right and upwards along a 40 m (75°) wall (R20–R21) in the direction of the base of a bastion (intersection with the route of A. Kolchin). To the base of the bastion leads a 50 m (70°) section (R21–R22), ending in a black 3 m (R22–R23) навесом 80°. Difficult traverse of 10 m (R23–R24) along a vertical wall, further ascent (R24–R25) along a 10 m wall (90°), and again a 15-meter traverse (R25–R26) under нависающими скалами to the base of a 5 m vertical internal corner (R26–R27). After the corner, movement is traverse (R27–R28) to the right and upwards 40 m along a wall of 75–80° in the direction of a waterfall from black rocks, and after overcoming with the help of ladders (90°) a 5 m wall (R28–R29), exit to a wide talus ledge with snow. Traverse along the ledge is 40 m (R29–R30), and further left and upwards along a wide internal corner, first along snow (30 m) with a steepness of 45° (R30–R31), then along rocks of medium difficulty 80 m (R31–R32) with a steepness of 75°.

19:00. Bivouac. Good sites. Water is available.

July 16 — Day three. From the bivouac site directly upwards is a vertical wall of 5 m (R32–R33), further to the right and upwards an 80 m (80°) section (R33–R34) leads to a 70-meter internal corner (R34–R35) with a steepness of 75–80°. Further, the corner becomes less steep (R35–R36), and at a distance of 65 m, it has a steepness of 70°. A 10-meter нависающая стенка (R36–R37) leads to a наклонной 10 m (50°) niche (R37–R38). To the top of the bastion leads an internal corner of 35 meters with a steepness of 70° (R38–R39). After 3 hours of movement along несложным (65°) разрушенным скалам (R39–R40), пересекающимся osypiami, a narrow ledge (R40–R41) with a length of 140 m, and a вершинному куполу 60°, covered with small talus — exit to the summit at 15:00.

Descent along the ascent path in the direction of the NW edge of 5B category difficulty. Further to the right (in the direction of descent) from the NW edge, descent is via rappel along «бараньим лбам» 350 m to the glacier. At 21:00, the group returned to the base camp.

Table

Main characteristics of the ascent route

Departure on July 15 at 8:00. Bivouac at 19:00. Total climbing hours — 11. Bivouac conditions: good sites, water available. At 12:00 — ascent to the top of the bastion. At 15:00 — ascent to the summit. At 21:00 — descent to the base camp.

Route of I group