Passport
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Category of first ascent.
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Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
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Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest (3) via N ridge.
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First ascent of category 3A difficulty is proposed.
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Height 3720 m, elevation gain 450 m, length 1520 m.
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Pitons: 16 ice screws for protection.
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Climbing time 12 hours.
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Overnight stays: not necessary.
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Leader: Mokhova Valentina Mikhaylovna, 1st sports category.
Team members:
- Eremin Andrey Anatolyevich, 1st sports category
- Dumayskaya Elena Leonidovna, 1st sports category
- Semenov Sergey Aleksandrovich, 1st sports category
- Coach: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich, category I instructor № 68.
- Ascent date: August 8, 1998.
- Organization: Altai Krai Alpine Federation.
Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest (3)
Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest via N ridge
Approach description
From the base camp, move upstream along the Turaoyuk River. The first ascent leads to the marshy bottom of the valley. Cross it and ascend to the moraine rampart, behind which lies the lower lake. Follow the marshy shore along the lake and ascend to the moraine rampart. Move along the moraines, bypassing the rocky outcrop to the right, under the slopes of Peak Uchebnaya. Along the scree slopes, approach the upper lake and set up a bivouac in its upper part.
Travel time from the base camp: 4 hours.
Route description
From the bivouac, ascend to the N ridge of Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest via the scree slope and approach the icy part of the N ridge. Time — 1.5 hours from the bivouac. In the lower part, the ridge is gentle, and the first 300 m of ice can be traversed simultaneously with piton protection. The slope's steepness gradually increases, and the next 120 m require alternating movement with protection via ice screws. The next 200 m are key:
- The slope's steepness becomes 30–40°;
- A series of bergschrunds must be overcome;
- Movement is alternating, with piton protection and belays.
The final 100 m of the ice slope, leading to the summit ridge (10–15°), can be traversed simultaneously with piton protection. Ascend to the summit via the easy ridge. Ascent time — 7–8 hours.
Descent via the SW ridge, category 1B difficulty route.