As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow.

5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route:

dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45°

6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80
7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1.
8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

Par­tici­pants:

• Ku­li­shi­sova Ale­na Ma­ra­tovna 2nd sports rank
• Pin­tu­sov An­ton Ni­ko­la­e­vich 2nd sports rank

9. Team coa­ches:

Fi­la­tov Se­r­gey Al­ek­se­e­vich MS

10. Date of de­par­ture:

On the route — at 8:00, May 8, 2015 On the sum­mit — at 15:00, May 8, 2015 Re­turn to B.L. — at 18:30, May 8, 2015. Des­cent from the sum­mit: via 2B cat. dif. on NW slope;

11. As­cent or­ga­nized — No­vo­si­birsk, Fed­er­a­tion of al­pi­nism of No­vo­si­birsk re­gion.
12. Per­son res­pon­si­ble for the re­port: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich. E-mail and phone: (iv­liev@yan­dex.ru), +7 903 904 56 98.

Gen­eral view of the route

Tactical ac­tions of the team, over­view of the re­gion. This year in the Aktru val­ley, in the pe­ri­od from April 30 to May 9, al­pi­ni­sts from FANO com­pleted about 20 as­cents, in­clu­ding:

• 1 first as­cent of the route;
• 1 sec­ond as­cent of the route.

In 2010 we climbed a clas­si­fied route on Mt. Snezhnaya 2B. The route des­crip­tion sta­tes that it passes along the rocks on the snow and ice slope. How­ever, in sum­mer the route is quite dan­ge­rous due to rock­fall. We no­ticed that through the cen­ter of the slope we can lay a new safe ice route, lea­ding di­rectly to the sum­mit Snezhnaya.

On May 6, 2015 at 3:00 we left the base camp Aktru, crossed the ri­ver Aktru and ar­rived at the ice­fall on the gla­cier Pra­vy Aktru. The ice­fall is over­come along the wall of Mt. Karatash. Fur­ther route lay along the gla­cier Pra­vy Aktru. The gla­cier is closed, mo­ve­ment in ro­pes. Over­co­ming 2 and 3 steps of the ice­fall, we ap­proached the be­gin­ning of the route at 8:00. The route is an ice slope with an av­er­age steep­ness of 40–45°. We reached the sum­mit at 15:00.

We des­cen­ded to the base camp at 18:30.

Sche­me of the route in UIAA sym­bols:

• Ice N​₂​e

• Pitons 322

• III, 360­m, 40–45° R3

• 22­II, 120­m, −30° R2

• IV, 340­m, 45–50° R1

• R0 II, 50­m, 30°

Brief de­scrip­tion of the route pas­sage by sec­tions: Sec­tion R0–R1: Be­gin­ning of the route, snow slope. In the up­per part the an­gle of in­cli­na­tion in­crea­ses.

Sec­tion R1–R2: Key sec­tion of the route. Pro­longed ice slope with a slope of 45–50°. Passed with ca­re­ful piton belay.

Sec­tion R2–R3: Ice slope. Sig­ni­fi­cant flat­tening. Sec­tion R3: Pre-sum­mit slope up to 40–45°. Ex­it to the sum­mit.