ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION
Report
On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk
to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:
- Kulishova Alena Maratovna
- Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
- Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich
Ascent Passport
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Region — Altai Republic, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
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Summit — Snezhnaia 3800 m via center of the northwestern slope.
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Presumed — 4A cat. diff.
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Route type — ice.
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Route characteristics: Main section height difference 540 m, Route length — 870 m. Length of sections 4 — 340 m, 3 — 360 m, 2 — 170 m. Average slope of the main section 45°.
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Used on the route: ice screws — 80.
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Number of climbing hours — 7 h, days — 1.
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Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich — 1st climbing rank. Participants: Kulishova Alena Maratovna — 2nd climbing rank, Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich — 2nd climbing rank, Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich — 3rd climbing rank.
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Team coaches: Filatov Sergei Alekseevich — Master of Sport.
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Departure date: On the route — at 8:00 on May 8, 2015, To the summit — at 15:00 on May 8, 2015. Return to Base Camp — at 18:30 on May 8, 2015.
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Ascent organized by — Alpinism Federation of Novosibirsk Region.
Overview of the route
Area photopanorama
Ascent area diagram
Team's Tactical Actions
This year in the Aktru gorge, between April 30 and May 9, FANO climbers made about 20 ascents, of which:
- 1 first ascent
- 1 second ascent of a route.
In 2010, we climbed a classified route on Mt. Snezhnaia, category 2B. The route description states that it goes along the rocks through a snow-ice slope. However, in the summer, the route is quite prone to rockfall. We noticed that a new safe ice route can be laid through the center of the slope, leading directly to the summit Snezhnaia.
On May 6, 2015, at 3:00, we left the Aktru base camp, crossed the Aktru river, and reached the icefall on the Pravyi Aktru glacier. The icefall is traversed along the wall of Mt. Karatach. The further route lay across the Pravyi Aktru glacier. The glacier is closed, movement is in rope teams. Having overcome the 2nd and 3rd steps of the icefall, we reached the start of the route at 8:00. The route is an ice slope with an average steepness of 40–45°. We reached the summit at 15:00.
We descended to the base camp at 18:30.
| № | Ice screws | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 3 | 22 |  | III, 360 м, 40–45° |
| 2 | 2 |  | II, 120 м, –30° |
| 1 | 56 |  | IV, 340 м, 45–50° |
| 0 |  | II, 50 м, 30° |
Section R0–R1: Start of the route, snow slope. The angle of inclination increases in the upper part.
Section R1–R2: Key section of the route. Long ice slope with a slope of 45–50°. Climbing with thorough ice screw protection.
Section R2–R3: Ice slope. Significant flattening.
Section R3:
- Pre-summit slope up to 40–45°
- Exit to the summit
Section R0–R1
Section R1–R2
Section R2–R3
Section R3
