The summit of Spasatel via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel

Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, ice-snow.
4. Proposed — category 3B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 420 m; length — 730 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 10–15 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35°.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws — 17.
7. Team's travel time: 04:30 h from the glacier to the summit; 08:45 h from glacier to glacier; 11:45 h from the advanced base camp to the advanced base camp.
8. Overnight stays — none.
9. Leader: Baranov Sergey Ivanovich, 1st sports category. Participants: Eremin Andrey Anatolyevich, 2nd sports category; Komissarov Dmitry Alexandrovich, 3rd sports category; Neyaskina Olga Vladimirovna, 3rd sports category.
10. Coach: Tumyalis Vladimir Vitalius, II category.
11. Departure from the advanced base camp: 07:15, August 19, 2000. Departure on the route: 08:45, August 19, 2000. Reaching the summit: 13:15, August 19, 2000. Return to the advanced base camp: 19:00, August 19, 2000.
12. Organization: gatherings of Barnaul city.

Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, shooting point #1

n. v. Spasatel

Spasatel. The approach from the camp takes 3–3.5 h, from the advanced base camp in the area of the last spill — 1–1.5 h.

Movement on ice. Along the rocky island on the right 100 m (2 ropes of 50 m) — steepness: 20°–25°, simultaneous movement with insurance through ice screws. Ice forehead 10–15 m, 45°–55°, movement on fixed ropes, insurance through ice screws. 300 m (6 ropes of 50 m) — steepness: 30°–35°, movement on fixed ropes, insurance through ice screws. Exit to the "pillow". Crevasses. In the direction of the saddle 100 m (2 ropes of 50 m) — steepness: 10°–15°, simultaneous movement with insurance through ice screws or alternate through ice axes. Overcoming the bergschrund (1 rope of 50 m). Exit to the saddle, transition to the summit rock tower — 60–80 m. On rocks of medium difficulty, in places wet and icy, climbing in crampons 70–90 m.

Descent via the ascent route.

Route safety assessment

The route is not prone to rockfall. Falling rocks are possible from the rocks on the left, but they are far enough from the route. During the passage of the route, rocks did not fall. All rocks falling from the rocks above are collected in the gentle part of the glacier — the "pillow" of Spasatel. Attention is required when overcoming crevasses on the glacier bends.