Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Peak 4630 m, via the center of the NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 700 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty 130 m, average wall slope 80°
6. Protection anchors installed rock anchors 35, ice anchors 1, used slings with carabiners 21
7. Total climbing time 14.5 hours

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay: Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 4200 "Little Prince" via the edge of the West Wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A – 550 m – total
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m (wall section); average steepness – 65°; section lengths: total: 1070 m, including 2nd category of difficulty – 450 m, 3rd category of difficulty – 80 m, 4th category of difficulty – 256 m, 5th category of difficulty – 254 m, 6th category of difficulty – 30 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: chocks — 28 rock — 46 ice — 0

Ascent Passport

(4200 Peak via Western Wall edge, category 5A difficulty (tentative))

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alay mountain range.
3. Peak 4200, Western wall edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A (third ascent).
5. Route description Elevation gain: 600 m; length of sections 5–6 — 250 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 75 for creating artificial holds — 2.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Region: Pamir-Alay 3. Peak: p. 4240 "Little Prince" via the left part of the Eastern wall 4. Approximate difficulty: 5B category 5. Route description: rock climbing, height difference 620 m (wall section 590 m), average steepness of the wall 71°, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty — 700 m 6. Number of pitons used:

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Koksu gorge.
3. Malenkiy Prints peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall (route by Yu. Zadvoryev)
4. Difficulty category — 5B (3rd ascent of the route)
5. Height difference 850 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 650 m Average steepness of main sections 68° (3650–4200)
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Kok-su river valley.
3. Rock massif (C-3) p. Spasatelya with subsequent ascent to v. Mramornaya (West)
4. Difficulty category ≈5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — section lengths:
   • 3 — 270 m
   • 4 — 400 m

Mramornaya Western, 4430 m, via the north-northeast face — first ascent Group from the "Alai" alpine camp:

• CHOCHIA Pavel Antonovich, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• GORDEEV Ivan Mikhailovich, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• RODIKOV Anatoly Petrovich, 1st sports category
• SAKHAROV Vladimir Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports
• FRIZYUK Nelli Zakharovna, Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
• KHASKIN Vladimir Yakovlevich, 1st sports category Coach: KAVUNENKO Vladimir Dmitrievich, Master of Sports of the USSR Kyrgyz SSR, 1979

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak Ossonaly, 4855 m, north face. (Peak height by altimeter 4807 m.)
4. Estimated difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1005 m (by altimeter); length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 425 m; 6th cat. diff. — 105 m; average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven for belaying: rock — 171; ice — 15.
7. Number of travel hours — 42.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: three overnight stays on artificial platforms laid on rock ledges; two overnight stays — for resting lying down, and one — for resting half-reclining.

Report

On the second ascent to the summit of Ossonali, 4855 m, category 5B, Alai ridge, Kok-Su gorge: by a team from the Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society, as a duo. July 9-11, 1978 General view of the summit.

Map scheme of the Alai ridge (Kok-Su area)

Table of main route characteristics.

The 4300 m peak (Malaia Ossonaly) is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Ossonaly peak. This peak is one of the most interesting objects for rock climbing in the Kok-Su area (Pamir-Alay). The most challenging routes can be laid out along its northeastern wall, which steeply drops to the glacier lying in the cirque of the Pravda Vostoka, Malenkiy Prints, and Ossonaly peaks. The wall is formed by fragile young marbles. Relatively destroyed rock sections alternate with large smoothed slabs. In the center of the wall, there is a huge hollow with a significantly overhanging cornice above it. Passing this section of the wall is only possible with the help of bolt hammers. The route chosen by the team passed to the left, along a part of the wall of the same steepness, which can be traversed by free climbing. The 4300 m peak is located near the road running along the Kok-Su River from the Alay hostel to the geologists' base. The journey from the Alay hostel to the bridge, from which the road leads to the trail heading to the overnight stays under the peak, takes 3 hours. The bridge is located 1 km after the confluence of the Kok-Su and Dzhugurtash rivers. The trail leads to a small waterfall, clearly visible from the road, and then brings you to the grassy slopes located directly under the 4300 m peak. Here, near the glacier tongue, from which a small river flows, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The journey along the trail from the road to the overnight stays takes 1 hour. The approach along the large talus from the overnight stays to the beginning of the route takes 20 minutes.