Route Description

Climbing Mt. Begich (4473 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B difficulty (tentative). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow:

• Up the Kок-Су valley along a dirt road to the bridge
• Then across the bridge and along a trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Kок-Су river to the first left tributary
• Up the tributary, staying on its right side
• Then along a grassy ridge to the wall of the eastern ridge of the peak From the base camp — 3–4 hours. Further, 40 meters up the inner corner of the wall, then 40 meters up and to the right onto the eastern ridge. Protection is via pitons. After crossing the ridge, the movement continues along a wide snow depression to a narrow snow couloir and then an ascent to the pre-summit shoulder of the eastern ridge.

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Koksu gorge, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Begichi, 4473 m, via "Igla" on the North wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 400 m, average steepness of the wall section — 70°
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock — 94 pcs., bolted — 3 pcs.; for creating artificial anchor points — 4 rock pitons
7. Number of travel hours — 23 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — one seated, for the whole group
9. Team composition:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge No. 5.5.I KTMGV
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 5205 via the southeast ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A category of complexity (“Dostuk”)
5. Route description: height difference 600 m, average slope 50°. Length of sections: I — 100 m, II — 150 m, IV — 550 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belay: rock — 18, ice — —, bolted — —; for creating belay stations: — —.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Number of nights and their description: 1 night at a col ~4600 m.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their sports qualification:

Ascent Report

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Para-Kazyk gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Alaudin (Dostuk) peak — 5214 m; left part of the Eastern wall, first ascent
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, wall section — 510 m, average steepness of the wall section — 45°
6. Driven pitons: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolts. For belay: rock 69, chocks 101.

First ascent via the NE edge, category 4A, to the summit of Zub Begichi (4100 m), Alaysky Khrebet, Kok-Su gorge

Alpinist camp “Alay” (head of the training department — Honored Coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR A.F. Naumov). Group composition:

• G.G. Andreev — Master of Sports
• V.S. Balyberdin — 1st sports category Leningrad, 1978 Photo 1. Zub Begichi peak (4100 m). Northeast wall and profile of the northeast buttress (view from the east).

PASSPORT

ASCENT TO Mt. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the NE counterfort.

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Alayskiy ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak 4100 m, proposed name Zub Begichi.
4. Proposed category of difficulty 4B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1100 m, length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category – 120 m
     • 4th difficulty category – 260 m

PASSPORT

First ascent to the summit of Djalgiz-Konush via the north-eastern wall of the Zub Begichi peak.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Alai Ridge, Kok-Su gorge.
3. Peaks: p. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the center of the north-eastern wall, followed by a traverse to p. Djalgiz-Konush (4470 m).
4. Assumed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain – 1500–1700 m. Wall:
   • elevation gain: 610 m

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Begichi gorge.
3. Peak — 4448 m, via the eastern counterfort.
4. Presumed category of difficulty — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 744 m, average steepness — 40°, total length of sections — 1180 m, 2nd category difficulty — 180 m, 3rd category difficulty — 620 m, 4th category difficulty — 180 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for rock belay — 21.
7. Total travel time — 9 hours.
8. Group composition: leader — Chernyaev A.I., 1st sports category, members — Engalycheva R.I., CMS, Zemlyanov M.E., 1st sports category, Kudryashov V.S., 1st sports category.
9. Team coach — Kudryashov V.S.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Koksu tract area, Alai ridge, Kemisdykty glacier cirque.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4824, via north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • route — combined;
   • height difference — 950 m;
   • length of sections 5–6;