Ascent Report
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Para-Kazyk gorge
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Alaudin (Dostuk) peak — 5214 m; left part of the Eastern wall, first ascent
- Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, wall section — 510 m, average steepness of the wall section — 45°
- Driven pitons: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolts. For belay: rock 69, chocks 101. For ITO: rock 4, chocks 8.
- Number of climbing hours — 2 hours
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: August 16, 1985, semi-reclining, water available
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
- Guselnikov V.M. — leader, Master of Sports
- Tarkhov E.V. — participant, Master of Sports
- Strelnikov V.I. — participant, Master of Sports
- Lukashin V.I. — participant, Master of Sports
- Yagupov S.N. — participant, Master of Sports
- Team coach — Bocharov V.P., Master of Sports of the USSR
- Date of departure on the route and date of return: departure on the route August 16, 1985, return August 17, 1985
- Name of the organization that organized the ascent: ASB "Dugoba"
Map-scheme of the Ascent Area
M 1:50 000
Panorama of the peaks of the West Kara-Kazyk glacier (shot from the Kara-Kazyk pass)
Full profile of route photos
- Peak Alaodin (50 cm loose)
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak Alaodin via the left part of the Eastern wall — first ascent — approximately 5B category of difficulty
| Date | Section | Average steepness, ° | Length, m | Terrain characteristics | Diff. grade | Condition | Pitons: rock | Pitons: chocks | Pitons: bolts | Pitons: ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16.08.1985 г. | 1 | 45 | 50 | Snow slope with constantly increasing steepness | 5 | firm snow | ||||
| 1 | 85 | 20 | Smoothed rock wall with brittle structure. Limited microrelief. | 6 | unstable rocks | 6 | 4 | |||
| 2 | 80 | 20 | Inclined crevice, last 2/3—blind. | 5 | —//— | 7 | 1 | |||
| 3 | 85 | 10 | Rock wall with "ram's foreheads", traverse right-up. | 5 | monolith | 2 | 1 | |||
| 4 | 70 | 20 | Inner corner, left side — solid rocks | 5 | monolith and brittle rocks | 5 | 2 | |||
| 5 | 80 | 70 | Wall leading to a cave | 5 | unstable rocks | 1 | 2 | |||
| 6 | 70 | 10 | Inclined slab without crevices with small bulges like a "washboard". Movement by friction. Exit to the wall with a slight overhang. | 5 | monolith | 1 | ||||
| 7 | 90 | 30 | Reddish rock wall, belay with chocks | 6 | dissected rock structure —//— | 9 | ||||
| 8 | 75 | 40 | Inclined rock slab made of marbleized limestone | 4 | 7 | 2 | ||||
| 9 | 60 | 10 | Inclined rock shelf with good ledges for belay | 3 | solid rock formations | 1 | ||||
| 10 | 70 | 30 | Inclined slab with a "path" of crevices right-left and up | 4 | dissected rock structure | 6 | 7 | |||
| 11 | 60 | 30 | Rock wall with ledges | 4 | block structure | 9 | 1 | |||
| 12 | 75 | 40 | Slab made of marbleized limestone with deep crevices. Chocks fit well | 5 | dissected rock structure | 9 | 1 | |||
| 13 | 90 | 20 | Steep rock wall, microrelief limited, traverse left | 5 | monolith | 3 | 4 | |||
| 14 | 75 | 20 | Slab with a crevice in the center | 5 | dissected rock structure | 6 | ||||
| 15 | 75 | 40 | Inner corner made of blocks of marbleized limestone | 5 | —//— | 3 | 8 | |||
| 16 | 80 | 10 | Rock wall with a small rib, leading to a shelf with a wall | 5 | other rock structure | 2 | 1 | |||
| 17.08.1985 г. | 17 | 80 | 35 | Wide chimney, passed "in expansion", with slings. | 6 | block structure | 1 | 8 | ||
| 18 | 85 | 40 | Inner corner, movement along the left part | 5 | brittle rocks | 3 | 9 | |||
| 19 | 80 | 45 | Rocks like "ram's foreheads", difficult to set up belay. | 5 | solid rocks | 2 | 8 | |||
| 20 | 40 | 20 | Inclined rock shelf. Bivouac and wall preparation | 3 | destroyed rocks | 1 | 1 | |||
| 20X | 90 | 60 | Rock wall made of destroyed marbleized limestone | 5 | —//— | 5 | 12 | |||
| 21 | 70 | 30 | Slab with many cracks for chocks | 4 | dissected rock structure | 7 | 8 | |||
| 22 | 65 | 80 | Rock ridge | 3 | unstable rocks | |||||
| 23 | 45 | 15 | Wall leading to the ridge shoulder | 3 | —//— | 1 | ||||
| 24 | 15 | 15 | Rock shoulder of the ridge. Good bivouac site | rocks, talus | ||||||
| 25 | 80 | 45 | Inner corner formed by large blocks | 5 | destroyed block structure | 1 | 7 | |||
| 26 | 45 | 5 | Rock shelf | |||||||
| 27 | 70 | 30 | Snow-covered rock wall | 4 | snow-covered destroyed rocks | 5 | 1 | |||
| 28 | 30–35 | 350 | Snow ridge | 3 | firm snow | |||||
| 29 | Exit to the summit |
Team captain V.M. Guselnikov
Route diagram in UIAA symbols
Brief explanation for the table
R0–R1: Snow slope with increasing steepness.
R1–R2: Steep, smoothed rock wall with unstable, brittle structure. Climbing in crampons, extremely difficult. Belaying is complicated.
R2–R3: Inclined crevice with smoothed rocks, turning into a wall at the top. Rocks are unstable.
R3–R4: Rock wall with "ram's foreheads". Rocks are monolithic, traverse right-up. Hard to find good cracks for pitons.
R4–R5: Inner corner, left side — solid rocks. Climbing in crampons, heavy. Piton belay, petal pitons on the left side of the corner.
R5–R6: Wall consisting of unstable rocks. Very careful climbing in crampons.
R6–R7: Inclined slab without crevices with small bulges like a "washboard". Movement by friction. Exit to the wall with a slight overhang, which is passed by free climbing.
R7–R8: Reddish rock wall. Be careful when choosing places for chocks. Difficult climbing.
R8–R9: Inclined rock slab made of marbleized limestone. Belay with long thin pitons.
R9–R10: Inclined rock shelf with good ledges for belay.
R10–R11: Inclined slab with a "path" of crevices right-left and up. Piton belay.
R11–R12: Rock wall with ledges. Careful climbing — there are "live" blocks. Long pitons go well.
R12–R13: Slab made of marbleized limestone with deep crevices. Difficult climbing.
R13–R14: Steep rock wall, microrelief limited, traverse left. Psychologically difficult climbing. Belay through chocks and pitons.
R14–R15: Slab with a crevice in the center. Few holds. Belay with chocks.
R15–R16: Inner corner made of blocks of marbleized limestone. Belay mainly through chocks.
R16–R17: Rock wall with a small rib, leading to a shelf with a wall. Difficult transition to the rib. Possible detour to the right.
R17–R18: Wide chimney. Passed "in expansion", with slings. Belay through chocks. Very difficult climbing.
R18–R19: Inner corner, passed along the left part. Structure is brittle. Careful climbing.
R19–R20: Rocks like "ram's foreheads". Difficult to set up belay. Chocks of a large size range are needed. Difficult climbing.
R20–R20x: Inclined rock shelf. Bivouac. Wall preparation.
R20x–R21: Rock wall made of destroyed marbleized limestone. Chocks fit well.
R21–R22: Slab with many cracks for chocks.
R22–R23: Destroyed rock ridge.
R23–R24: Wall leading to the ridge shoulder.
R24–R25: Rock shoulder of the ridge. Good bivouac site.
R25–R26: Inner corner formed by large blocks. Belay with chocks.
R26–R27: Rock shelf.
R27–R28: Snow-covered rock wall. Ice in crevices.
R28–R29: Snow ridge. Simultaneous or alternating movement.