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Description of the ascent route to the top of **Dombai** from **Dombai** pass, category IIIB.

— Mapunpin loцohodeэus on 6. Aoribay (N) — 3B cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3B cat. diff. Ascent route to Dombai (S) — 3A cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3A cat. diff. Dombai (S) summit, 3585 m Dombai Pass 140 m, 10°, 1 30 m, 40°, 2 40 m, 50°, 3

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Report on traversing the Dombai-Ulgen massif via a Category 5B route, completed by a team from the Crimean Republican Alpine Club in August 2023.

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

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Traversing the Domбай-Ulgen massif in July 1951: a description of the classic route, its history, and key features.

TRAVERSE ROUTE OF THE DOMBAY — ULGEN MASSIF July 1951

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The route of the Dottagh-Kaya peaks traverse with an ascent to the Western peak along the northwestern ridge, complexity category 4A.

Fig. 53

1. Traversing the Dottakh-kaya peaks (3670 m) with ascent to the Western summit via the northwestern ridge (cont. fors) — category 4A difficulty (fig. 53)

From Dombay, by car to the Bu-Ulgen plain or on foot through the Chuchkhur pass. From the Bu-Ulgen plain to the confluence of the Dottakh-kaya and Bu-Ulgen rivers and across the snow bridge (fordable at the end of summer) over the Bu-Ulgen River. Then along the Dottakh-kaya River upstream to the base of the northwestern ridge. Further:

  • detour around the base of the ridge from the left via the "ram's foreheads",
  • ascent via the moraine and a small snowpatch to a deep depression in the ridge — a bivouac site, water. From the Bu-Ulgen plain, 4–4.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the ridge to the right and along it straight up (or bypassing certain sections) to the first sentinel rock. Ascent to the sentinel rock head-on (belay!), descent from it on the right side via ledges and back onto the ridge. Ascent to the second sentinel rock from the right via a 6-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left and exit onto the ridge via slabs (belay!). Further, via a steep slab (60°, belay!) to the first wall. Ascent up the wall via a 20-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left 20–25 meters across loose rocks. Then via a ledge up to the right onto the ridge, ascent via slabs to a snowpatch and along it to the left under the second wall, 120 meters high (wall steepness 70 — 75°). Ascent up the wall straight (pitons for belay!), exit onto the pre-summit ridge and along it to the Western summit.
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Description of the traverse of the Dottakh-Kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif, a challenging mountaineering route of category 4B difficulty level, which includes the ascent to the Dottakh-Kaya and Bu-Ulgen peaks.

Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

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Ascent to Iné peak (3409 m) from the North-East, 2A cat. of difficulty, from the Dombai valley via glacier and rocks to the summit.

Fig. 34

1. Ascent to Peak Ine (3409 m) from the northeast — category 2A difficulty (Fig. 34)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Dombayskoye valley to the old moraine opposite the Ine glacier — there is a signpost. From the signpost to the right, across the bridge over the Dombay river and to the left of the "ram's foreheads" up the grassy slopes. Further along the scree to the glacier and on it (in teams) to the "red rocks". Then up the moraine to the glacier bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 4–5 hours. From the bivouac, ascent along the glacier to a snowfield with a slope of 35–40° and along it up to the right to a gap in the north-eastern ridge of Peak Ine. From the gap up to the left

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Report on the ascent to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m via the glacier of the northern slope, category 1B complexity.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m

via the glacier on the northern slope. Category 1B difficulty. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Ascent on September 8, 2022. Semenov M. A. - Master of Sports, team leader Maksimov K. M. - experienced, second-class climber Alpclub - "Mountain Madness"

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

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Description of the ascent to Peak Inylchek (3409 m) via the northwest ridge, a category 4A climb, made by a group of climbers in 1973.

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).

  1. The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M. July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:
    1. Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
    1. Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
    1. Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
    1. Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category
  1. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.
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Report on the ascent of the ARKHYZ alpine club team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m via the Eastern ridge, complexity category 4B, first ascent.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkessia national team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m via the Eastern ridge. Presumably category IV-B. First ascent.

Semenov M. A. — team leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Climbing participants

  1. Team leader — Semenov Mikhail Aleksandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrosteel, Oktyabrskaya str., 8, apt. 117. Phone: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
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Report on the first ascent of the route category IV-B to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m via the right buttress of the western wall.

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m

via the right buttress of the western wall. Presumably IV-B category of difficulty. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

  1. Leader — Semyonov Mikhail Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya st., 8, apt. 117. Tel.: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
  2. Popov Mikhail Lvovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Essentuki.
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