REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).

1. The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M.

July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:

• 1. Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
• 2. Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
• 3. Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
• 4. Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category

2. Brief geographical description of the ascent area

Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.

3. Description of the ascent

The group left "Alibek" tourist center on July 30 at 13:00 to approach the route by the end of the day and start climbing it the next morning. They descended to Dombayskaya polyana, then followed the trail up the Dombay valley to Russkaya polyana. Approximately 1 km above the confluence of the stream flowing from the Northern Dzheguturoluchatsky cirque into the Dombay River, they reached the crossing point over the Dombay River. A log bridge had been set up in advance, mid-river on a large boulder. On the other side, they followed a stream on its left bank up to the "ram's foreheads." From there, they traversed the rocky and grassy slopes to the start of the northwest ridge, where they set up camp. The journey from Dombayskaya polyana (with the bridge in place) took 3.5–4 hours.

The next day, July 31, 1973, they started climbing at 5:00. The ridge begins with smooth rocks leading to a 50-meter wall intersected by an internal corner.

The route follows:

• Up the internal corner
• Then through a 5-meter chimney to an overhanging slab
• The slab is bypassed on the left to reach the ridge (R1 on the photo)

Climbing is difficult, especially near the slab. They moved in teams: Kokodiy — Kononenko and Borodenko — Chepeleva, using piton protection. Ropes were set up when bypassing the slab.

Further ascent was along the relatively easy ridge rocks. Movement was simultaneous with protection via ridge outcrops. A gendarme was bypassed on the right (R2).

Before reaching the sharp horizontal ridge, a 30-meter wall was encountered, which was climbed on its right side. The rocks were difficult, with a negatively inclined section at the top. Piton protection was used. The first climber ascended the wall without a backpack (R3).

After the wall, they traversed the sharp horizontal ridge to the junction of the northwest and north ridges. From the ridge, a 15-meter rappel led to a suitable bivouac site (R4). The ascent from the start took 3–3.5 hours.

After the plateau, the first ascent section begins (R5). A 3-meter wall led to a ledge; the ascent section was bypassed on the right, and they returned to the ridge. The ridge led to the second, 60-meter ascent.

Initially, they climbed slabs with minor depressions. Climbing was moderately difficult, requiring piton protection due to small outcrops.

The ascent sequence was as follows:

• Climb initially on the right side of the slabs,
• Then left and up a narrow ledge,
• Further up a gap between the main rock and a spalled slab to a ledge,
• From the ledge, right and up towards the top of the ascent.

The site was suitable for a bivouac (R6).

The third ascent section begins here. Initially, they traversed left along a wide, inclined 120–150-meter ledge to a plateau under two gendarmes at the top of the ridge. From there, a narrow, steep couloir (the first climber again without a backpack) 40 meters left and up led to the ridge behind the gendarmes (R7). Along the sharp ridge with a 10-meter wall, they reached the summit at 16:00 (R8).

Before the wall, a couloir descended left and down along the north face — this is the descent route via category 2A. They began descending immediately. They set up camp on a plateau under a snow patch halfway down the descent (see photo) as the sun began to set.

The next day, August 1, 1973, they descended to the Dombay River, crossed it below the Chuchkhur waterfalls, and returned to "Alibek" tourist center by 14:00.

4. Conclusions

The route corresponds fully to category 4A and is objectively safe. In the second half of summer, the route is purely rocky. Snow and ice are encountered only on the descent via category 2A. The rocks along the entire route are monolithic and solid. Despite the relatively low height of Pik Ine, the route is quite long. The entire ridge from its start to the summit takes 10–11 hours.

The route is similar to the category 4A route on Maly Dombay peak. The two walls and steep couloir to be overcome are approximately as challenging as the wall on Maly Dombay.

In the Dombay area, there are only 4 category 4A routes:

• on Amanauz Uzlovoy peak
• on Ertsog peak
• on Maly Dombay peak
• on Belala-kaya peak

Another classified route of this level would be very useful.

5. Recommendations for climbers

• 1. Number of participants in the group: not more than 6 people.
• 2. Movement schedule: Day 1 — departure from camp not later than 9:00 AM, approach to the route, and ascent to the ridge junction; Day 2 — ascent to the summit, descent, and return to camp.
• 3. Special equipment for a group of 4:
  • a) main rope — 2 × 40 m;
  • b) expendable reepschnur — 5–6 m;
  • c) rock pitons — 10–12 pcs;
  • d) rock hammers — 2 pcs;
  • e) carabiners — 10–12 pcs.
• 4. Possible bivouac sites:
  • 1st — at the start of the ridge;
  • 2nd — at the ridge junction;
  • 3rd — at the end of the second ascent;
  • 4th — on the ledge of the 3rd ascent;
  • 5th — on the descent via category 2A below the snow patch over the wet couloir.