CENTRAL COUNCIL "SPARTAK" SPORTS SOCIETY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ASCENT REPORT ON CHIMTARGA PEAK — 5494 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE First Ascent The route was climbed by the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society, consisting of:

• YANOV V.F. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team captain
• SOBOLEV V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• BYCHKOV V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• GAVROSHKIN V.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• KOTOV E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member

Ii a c ii o p­t

ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. 3. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 6. Number of climbing hours — 45

I. CLASS OF ASCENT

• high-altitude technical

2. AREA OF ASCENT

• Pamir-Alay.

3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Chimtarga, 5496 m, via the right part of the southern face.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B cat. diff.
5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: Height difference of the wall section — 650 m, — — — ridge — 250 m,

Ascent Logbook

Completed in the 1974 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route — via the western wall of Chimtarga peak (5494 m)
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1150 m, average steepness 86°–87°, length of complex sections — 1020 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 318
   • ice pitons (in rock) — 10
   • ice screws — 5

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley.
3. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face.
4. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty.

8. Six overnight stays - there are no overnight stays on the route, overnight stay at the base camp. 9. Group composition: Trofimov A.A. — 1st sports category, leader. Burlakov D.N. — 1st sports category, participant. Loginov D.N. — 1st sports category, — " — Sanddalov I.S. — 1st sports category, — " — 10. Team coach: — Karlov G.S. II. Date of departure on the route — March 11, 1972

1. Class of ascent: technical.
2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT BY THE TEAM OF ALPINISM SECTION NOVOSIBIRSK REGIONAL COUNCIL SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» TO THE SUMMIT ENERGY VIA THE WESTERN FACE CATEGORY 5B DIFFICULTY (APPROX.) IN ACCOUNT OF CHAMPIONSHIP CS SSS «SPARTAK» OF 1967 IN ALPINISM IN THE CLASS OF ALTITUDE-TECHNICAL ASCENTS