Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota

163. Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota via the Western Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, B. Ginzburg, A. Matskevich, S. Naryshkin, L. Khodyush, July 9, 1939).

From the "Adylsu" alpine camp, follow the highway down the Baksan valley to the village of Kurmy. From the village, head right and up along a good path on the left bank of the Kurmychi river, past a waterfall and a meadow on a moraine. Then cross to the right bank of the river and follow it to the tongue of the Kurmychi glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend the icefall to the snow plateau of the glacier. Above the icefall, turn right and exit onto the scree of the moraine under the southeastern slopes of Peak Aviatsii. Set up a base camp on the scree. Cross the Kurmychi glacier from the scree to the left (northeast) towards the saddle of the Western ridge of Peak VMF, located between this peak and a gendarme

Central Caucasus, Adylsky Ridge

Peak VMF

FIRST ASCENT VIA THE EAST RIDGE Group composition: V.A. Kazanovich, S.G. Porushky, S.P. Zhigir, S.A. Volyanyuk, M.G. Nikulin, V.I. Melnikov. 1980 From the "Djailyk" tourist camp:

• along the suspension road, on the left moraine.
• at the top, transition to the right moraine.
• on the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Jalovchat glacier and the Northern Koyavgan glacier.
• under the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyrly Range. 3. Ascent route: p. BMF 3900 m via the eastern ridge — first ascent. 4. Expected difficulty category: 2B category of difficulty. 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference 900 m; average slope 50°. 6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons 4. 7. Number of walking hours: 5 hours. 8. Group name: sports group of the "Jailyk" alpine camp. 9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "VMF" VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B BY THE TEAM OF ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" "POLITECH-4" FROM AUGUST 4, 2022 TO AUGUST 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

Navy Route, Category 2B

Route Description

From the Dzhalyk alpine camp along the suspension road, follow the left moraine. At the top, transition to the right moraine. Along the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and the Severny Koyavgan Glacier. Below the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree. Follow the scree to the lake. Camping by the lake (2 hours 30 minutes from the base). From the lake, head to the left moraine of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and, leaving the southern buttress of the eastern ridge to the right, ascend the snowfield to the Dzhalovchat Pass (40 minutes from the lake). Along the right edge of the Kurmychi Glacier, reach a broad snow saddle (40 minutes from the pass).

• The large gendarme (located at the junction of the Eastern and Western ridges) remains on the right.
• Camping is possible on the saddle below the summit tower. From the saddle, ascend the summit tower on its left side, emerging onto a narrow ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit. A two-meter wall is overcome directly. The ascent up the tower takes about 1.5 hours (40 minutes). Total time is around 4 hours.

Report

On the ascent to the peak 3858° via the North Ridge, made by the group a/l "Baksan" in the period from July 15–16, 1975, consisting of:

• Bodizhevsky V.K. — leader, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Ufimtsev V.D. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kovtun N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kruk I.P. — participant, 1st sports category

Description of the route

From the Azau meadow through the canyon, exit to the final lateral moraine of the tongue of the Bolshoi Azau glacier. Climb up the moraine to the glacier, cross it upwards to the left, and exit to the scree to the "Sand Hotel" below the Chipper-Azaou glacier — to the left of the Bolshoi Azau glacier.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, east of Chiper pass, from the side of Chiper-Azau glacier.
3. Peak 3858, via West Ridge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Height difference of the route 500 m (from Chiper pass).
6. Number of pitons used 5/0, including 2 ice pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours — 9.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac at "Sandy Hotel" 2700 m.

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.

125. Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A). The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak. Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:

• the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
• the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
• descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes. From the saddle:
• along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
• then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Peak, elevation: Pik Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Technical characteristics of the route:
   • elevation gain — 570 m;
   • average steepness — 54°;
   • wall section length — 550 m;
   • avg. steepness of wall section — 65°.