Central Caucasus, Adylsky Ridge
Peak VMF
FIRST ASCENT VIA THE EAST RIDGE
Group composition: V.A. Kazanovich, S.G. Porushky, S.P. Zhigir, S.A. Volyanyuk, M.G. Nikulin, V.I. Melnikov. 1980
From the "Djailyk" tourist camp:
- along the suspension road, on the left moraine.
- at the top, transition to the right moraine.
- on the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Jalovchat glacier and the Northern Koyavgan glacier.
- under the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree.
- on the scree towards the lake.
- overnight stay by the lake.
From the lake:
- to the left side of the orographic moraine of the Jalovchat glacier.
- in its middle, green part, ascent upwards, then to the left, bypassing the towers of the southern buttress.
- on the rocky ridges and snowfields, crossing couloirs, exit to the right onto the eastern ridge. 1–1.5 hours from the overnight stay.
- on the damaged rocky ridge (section 0–1) exit onto a wide snowy saddle.
- 2–2.5 hours from the overnight stay.
- on the rocky-snowy ridge (section 1–2) exit onto a saddle below the summit tower.
- on the ridge rocks, a control cairn.
- the nodal gendarme (located at the junction of the eastern and southern ridges) is bypassed on the right.
- overnight stay is possible on the saddle below the summit tower.
From the saddle:
- ascent to the summit tower (section 2–3) on its left side, with exit onto a narrow ridge.
- on the narrow ridge (section 3–4) exit onto the summit.
- a two-meter wall is overcome head-on.
Descent:
- from the summit to the saddle via the ascent route.
- from the saddle down to the Kurmy glacier.
- traverse the glacier to the left towards the Jalovchat pass.
- descent from the Jalovchat pass to the left towards the overnight stay by the lake.
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route
| Date | Designation | Average steepness | Length, m | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock climbing | Ice climbing | Bolts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 11, 1980 | 0–1 | 40–45 | 800 | ridges, snowfields | 1–2 | rocky, damaged | satisfactory | - | - | - |
| 1–2 | 30–40 | 300–400 | ridge | 2 | rocky, snowy | - | - | - | - | |
| 2–3 | 65–70 | 160–200 | summit tower | 3 | monolithic | - | 3 | - | - | |
| 3–4 | - | 60 | narrow ridge with a 2m wall, 90° | 3 | monolithic | - | 1 | - | - |
Protocol
of July 12, debriefing of the ascent to the peak VMF via the Eastern Ridge, first ascent, group led by V.A. Kazanovich, consisting of:
- M. Nikulin
- V.I. Melnikov
- S.G. Porutsky
- S.P. Zhigir
- S.A. Volyanyuk
Present: participants of the ascent, head of the training department of "Djailyk" tourist camp, V.P. Popov.
Kazanovich: from the camp to the overnight stay by the lake on the tongue of the Jalovchat glacier, the journey took 2.5 hours.
From the overnight stay, we departed at 5:00 AM to the left moraine of the Jalovchat glacier, in its middle part, at the level of the overnight stay.
Further:
- to the right, bypassing the tower of the southern buttress
- on the rocky ridges and snowy couloirs, we exited onto the eastern ridge
- then on the snowy couloirs, exit onto the snowy saddle below the nodal gendarme
We were under the gendarme at 7:00.
On the ridge, near the nodal gendarme, we built a control cairn.
Further on the snowy ridge under the summit tower. We were under the tower at 8:00.
From the saddle by the tower, we began the ascent to the summit on rocks of medium difficulty. We were on the summit at 9:15.
Descent:
- via the ascent route to the saddle
- then down the couloir to the Kurmychi glacier
- Jalovchat pass
- on the Jalovchat glacier towards the overnight stay
We were back at the overnight stay at 11:30.
The route consists of the following sections:
- Exit onto the ridge — steep scree ridges and snowfields, 800 m, 1–2.
- Snowy-rocky ridge with a nodal gendarme, 300–400 m, 2.
- Summit tower, 160–200 m, 65–70°, climbing, 3.
- Summit ridge — narrow, with a trident shape, climbing, 3.
The route is logical, ridge-type. The route corresponds to category 2B difficulty and is recommended for sports groups.
Regarding the participants: the participants worked according to their qualifications.
Porutsky: I believe the route exceeds category 2B difficulty. It is shorter than the classic routes of category 3A difficulty but deserves category 3A.
Nikulin: the route corresponds to category 2B difficulty, not 1B as classified, and it's most logical to ascend through the Jalovchat pass; it can be recommended for training groups.
Melnikov: no particular comments. The route corresponds to category 2A-2B difficulty.
Volyanyuk: there are two routes — via the Eastern Ridge and through the Jalovchat pass.
From the Jalovchat pass — category 2B difficulty. No comments on the participants.
Zhigir: the route corresponds to category 2B difficulty.
Popov: the ascent and leadership are confirmed.
Protocol led by S.P. Zhigir.