Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota

163. Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota via the Western Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, B. Ginzburg, A. Matskevich, S. Naryshkin, L. Khodyush, July 9, 1939).

From the "Adylsu" alpine camp, follow the highway down the Baksan valley to the village of Kurmy. From the village, head right and up along a good path on the left bank of the Kurmychi river, past a waterfall and a meadow on a moraine. Then cross to the right bank of the river and follow it to the tongue of the Kurmychi glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend the icefall to the snow plateau of the glacier. Above the icefall, turn right and exit onto the scree of the moraine under the southeastern slopes of Peak Aviatsii. Set up a base camp on the scree. Cross the Kurmychi glacier from the scree to the left (northeast) towards the saddle of the Western ridge of Peak VMF, located between this peak and a gendarme standing to the left of the Jangalovchatsky pass.

From the glacier, ascend a snowy slope with a bergschrund in the middle part, then climb large scree to the saddle between Peak VMF and the gendarme. From the saddle, turn left and ascend simple monolithic rocks of the Western ridge or its right side (with protection!) to under a 6–8-meter rock pitch. Climb the pitch in the center (with protection!). Then follow simple, slightly damaged rocks of the ridge to reach the summit of Peak VMF.

From the scree under Peak Aviatsii — 4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Total route duration — 2 hours.