- Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A).
The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak.
Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:
- the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
- the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
- descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes.
From the saddle:
- along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
- then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),
- and simple rocky ridge to Bazal'tovyy gendarme.
Ascend steep rocks of above average difficulty (piton belay!) onto the gendarme head-on, and from it make a 5-6 m rappel onto a ledge. From the ledge, along a narrow short snowy ridge (cornice!) — exit to a site under "Gogol'" gendarme.
Ascend "Gogol'" gendarme along above average difficulty, in places difficult, 60-meter brittle tile-like inclined plates on the left side of a steep edge with a narrow ledge in the middle part, and above — along the edge itself (without a backpack, piton belay). Descend from it along the rocky ridge.
The next first three small gendarmes in the ridge are to be overcome head-on (a site after the 1st gendarme). Bypass the last, 4th, gendarme along rocks of average difficulty on the right (belay!) and exit under the rocky ascent to the peak.
Ascend the ascent:
- along a wide ledge going up along the right side of the summit couloir to a chimney,
- then along simple rocks of the chimney to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya peak.
From Kashkatash pass — 7-9 hours. Descend from the peak along the West ridge (see route 121) with a bivouac on the saddle. Duration of the route — 3 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 30 m,
- accessory cord — 3 m,
- rock pitons — 5-7,
- ice pitons — 4-5,
- rock hammers — 2,
- carabiners — 10-12,
- crampons — 4 pairs,
- tent — 1.
Possible bivouac sites — on all sites and snowy sections of the East ridge, peak, and West ridge (see route 121). "Baksanskaya dolina", A.F. Naumov