Navy Route, Category 2B

Route Description

From the Dzhalyk alpine camp along the suspension road, follow the left moraine. At the top, transition to the right moraine. Along the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and the Severny Koyavgan Glacier. Below the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree. Follow the scree to the lake. Camping by the lake (2 hours 30 minutes from the base).

From the lake, head to the left moraine of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and, leaving the southern buttress of the eastern ridge to the right, ascend the snowfield to the Dzhalovchat Pass (40 minutes from the lake).

Along the right edge of the Kurmychi Glacier, reach a broad snow saddle (40 minutes from the pass).

• The large gendarme (located at the junction of the Eastern and Western ridges) remains on the right.
• Camping is possible on the saddle below the summit tower.

From the saddle, ascend the summit tower on its left side, emerging onto a narrow ridge.

Follow the narrow ridge to the summit. A two-meter wall is overcome directly.

The ascent up the tower takes about 1.5 hours (40 minutes). Total time is around 4 hours.

Descend from the summit via the ascent route.