PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. "Ullutau" massif, via the rock islands of the Northern wall and the Western ridge (Maltsev's route), category 5B.
4. Elevation gain: 717 m length: 935 m, length of sections: 500 m, category 5, average steepness of the main part of the route 65°.
5. Pitons driven: rock: 19/0; bolt: 0+1x/0; chocks: 5/0; ice screws: 137/0.
6. Team's travel hours: 13.5 hours.
7. Overnights: 1st on the ridge on a site in a tent, 2nd on the ridge on a site in a tent.

1. Winter climb.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.
3. Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).
4. Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.
5. Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0
7. Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
8. Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasian Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak: Ullu-Tau Main, right of the rock islands N wall W ridge (S. Burlutsky's route)
3. Category of difficulty: 5B
4. Route character: ice-snow
5. Height difference of the route: from bergschrund to the summit – 800 m (approximately) Route length: – 1200 m. Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 640 m, Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
3. Ullu-Tau Glavnaya peak to the right of the rocky islands (Burlutsky's route).
4. Category of difficulty 5B ice-snow, 2nd ascent. 1994.
5. Height difference — 870 m; length — 1200 m (wall section — 950 m). Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 910 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56°.
6. Number of ice screws used — 105 (0)
7. Team's climbing hours — 12.5 hours (11.5 hours — on the wall) and 2 days.

Ullu-Tau Main 4207 m. Right of the rock islands. North wall of the Western ridge. Burlutsky's route.

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
3. 5B category of difficulty.
4. Route type — ice and snow.
5. Height difference of the route is 1100 m. Route length is 1380 m. Length of category 5 sections — 890 m. Average slope:

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent)

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1.
2. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir
3. Proposed category — 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type — ice and snow climb.
5. Height difference — 910 m.
6. Route length — 1100 m.
7. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m.
8. Average slope — 55°.

Ascent Passport.

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
3. Complexity category: 5B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections — 80°;

PASSPORT

I. CLIMB CLASS – winter 2. CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus 3. PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) 4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B 5. ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m 6. LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m 7. AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° 8. PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

1991 RSFSR Alpine Championship. Winter Ascension Class 135

Report

Report on the ascent to Ullu-Tau peak (Main) 4207 m via the north wall, category 5B, Abalakov's route '51. 2.4.1.132 KTMGV Team from "Rodina" Sports Club of the Kirov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team Leader Coach Shabalin P.E. Mashkovtsev V.I. "Rodina" Sports Club: 610006, Kirov, Lepsye St., 4A, ph. 30310, 36592

The summit of Ullu-Tau (4207 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range and closes the Adyr-Su gorge. The summit is an array located in the East-West direction and has three not clearly defined peaks: Eastern, Main, and Western. The highest point of the massif is the Main peak of Ullu-Tau. To the north, the massif drops off with a steep wall with significant glaciation. The height difference is over 1200 m. All technically complex routes on the massif pass along the northern walls and are combined. Eight routes of category 5B have been laid on the massif (all along the northern walls). For the ascent, the group chose a new route through a steep rocky outcrop located between the rocky bastions of the Eastern and Main peaks. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, past the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp, up the gorge for 3 hours to the moraine under the northern wall of Ullu-Tau Main ("Central bivouac").

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route