203. Ullutau Vostochnaya via the East Ridge (combined route, E. Emelyanova, category 3B complexity, fig. 24, 30). Follow the snowy slope of the Mestian pass saddle (point 199) to the base of the East Ridge of the Ullutau massif. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge to reach the East Ridge of the massif. Along the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward East Ridge, approach the "saw". Traverse the destroyed, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the "saw" with 4 gendarmes, then follow a snowy saddle ("live" rocks, protection), and continue along the straightforward, gentle, long, and occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) East Ridge to the snow dome. From the dome, make a straightforward, gentle descent along the broad, snow-covered rocky East Ridge to a saddle (cornice). From the saddle, a steep ascent follows up rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the "Vzlet" gendarme, and from it along the straightforward, sharp, snow-covered (cornice) East Ridge. Continue along the ridge with small gendarmes of the second "saw" to the "Ogurtsy" gendarmes. Bypass "Ogurtsy" on the left via steep, destroyed rocks of moderate to above-moderate difficulty (protection) and rise up a couloir to a broad snowy saddle on the East Ridge below the rocky wall of the East shoulder. The saddle is a bivouac site. From the Mestian pass, 4–8 hours. From the saddle:

• Ascend 40 m up rocks of moderate difficulty on the left side of the wall;
• continue up the slope-couloir on the left side, traversing to the ridge of the East shoulder;
• follow straightforward, snow-covered rocks on the left side of the ridge to the East shoulder;
• from the shoulder, make a straightforward descent to a saddle (cornice);
• cross the saddle along the ice-snow ridge, then follow the slope and straightforward rocks to ascend to the summit of Ullutau Vostochnaya.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent class
2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Ulu-Tau East peak, 4058 m via the right edge of the N face (Monucharov route)
4. Complexity category 5B
5. Elevation gain 700 m, length 950 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 50 m. Average slope of the route 50°
6. Pitons used: rock: 23/0, drilled: 0/0, chocks: 45/3, ice screws: 55/0
7. Climbing time — 12 hours, descent — 9 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Chiperaza Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak — Ullutau East (4058 m) via the right edge of the North face of the East shoulder.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m, average steepness — 55°, length of sections: I difficulty grade — 0 m, II difficulty grade — 0 m, III difficulty grade — 640 m, IV difficulty grade — 80 m, V difficulty grade — 1290 m, VI difficulty grade — 0 m.
6. Pitons driven for belaying: rock 39, ice 67, bolt —; for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO): rock —, ice —, bolt —.
7. Number of travel hours — 19 hours.

Passport

1. Snow-ice class
2. Main Caucasus Range from Chipperaza pass to Kitlod pass
3. ULLUTAU Eastern peak (4058 m) via the right edge of the North face of the Eastern shoulder
4. Complexity category 5B
5. Height difference: 950 m, route length — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 1120 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 54°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 1х | - | 21 | 183 |

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of the area

The ULlu-TAU-CHANA massif is located in the main Caucasian ridge in the upper reaches of the ADYR-SU gorge. This area is frequently visited by climbers and is very well studied. From a sporting perspective, the ULlu-TAU massif is of great interest. Only from the north, 4 routes of 5B category difficulty have been laid. The routes on the northern walls are combined and quite extensive (≈ 1000 m). All routes laid from the north are characterized by steep ice sections of sufficient length. The route taken in the winter of 1965 lies between two well-known routes - the walls leading to the Central and Eastern peaks.

Description of the ascent

March 16. The duo CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI went to a bivouac located under the wall, with the aim of re-connaissance, so that in case of good weather and route conditions, they could start processing the route on the morning of March 17. (The remaining participants in the camp were finishing their training program). March 17. At 7:00, the rope team CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI started processing the route. MARGIANI, RUZHEVSKY, SOKOLOVSKY, POROKHNYA left the camp for the bivouac at 12:00. The approach to the bivouac (in winter) takes about 4 hours. (Deep snow, skis). Soon after the main group arrived at the bivouac, the duo returned from processing. They managed to process 90 m of ice and 30 m of steep rock ("island") during the day. See photo-diagram. So, 10 hours and 120 meters. The ice is steep (50°), very dense, movement is only possible with 12-tooth crampons. The island rocks are completely steep, requiring the use of advanced rock climbing techniques. March 18. The MARGIANI-RUZHEVSKY rope team started processing the route at 7:00 and worked until 16:00, processing the remaining, more complex part of the "island" and the lower slabby rocks. A total of 70 m. All work, except on the slabs, was done on a platform using piton hooks.

Passport

1. Type of ascent — ice and snow climb.
2. Region of ascent — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ullutau East, 4058 m, via rocky outcrops of the North face, West ridge (route by Yu. Chernoslvin, 1965)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference of the route — 650 m
   • route length — 850 m
   • length of sections category 5 — 85 m (central part of the Big rocky outcrop)
   • length of sections category 3–4 — remaining part of the rocky outcrop

Dedicated to the blessed memory of Misha Khergiani and E. Sokolovsky by the team on their ascent

Report

On the ascent to the Eastern peak of Ullu-tau-chana via the rocky islands of the northern wall to the Western ridge, made by the KFK team No. 76 during the CS Fis alpine climbing championship from June 29 to July 1, 1980 (second ascent). Team members:

• Shumikhin G.I. — CMS, team captain
• Dubrovskikh V.V. — 1st sports rank
• Yagupov S.N. — 1st sports rank
• Yakovlev G.S. — MS, coach 1st place CS Fis 1980, group I, rock climbing category

Ascent Details

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — winter
2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m
6. Number of driven pitons: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty Moscow 1972

2. History of the Massif Exploration

Exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933 when A. Japaridze and G. Nigurianti ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier from the Mestia pass via a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western Peak from the Garvash pass via a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif of category 4B difficulty were also first accomplished:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east;
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — the first ascent via the "board" to the Western Peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the assault on the northern walls began:
• 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main Peak "Central" via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty;

Passport

I class — snow-ice 2. Main Caucasian Range, Adyrsu river gorge 3. V. Ullutau via the north face of the eastern shoulder (D. Chernoslvin's route) — 4058 m. 4. Difficulty category — 5B. 5. Height difference 950 m, length — 1020 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 230 m. Average steepness of the ice part of the route 50°, rocky part — 65°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, chocks — 46, ice screws — 102. 7. Climbing hours — 16.5 hours. 8. Overnight stay — snow platform on the ridge. 9. Leader — Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich, CMS. Participants — Panarin Nikolai Dmitrievich, CMS, Foigt Alexander Vadimovich, CMS, Chan-syan Anatoly Vladimirovich, CMS.