Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of the area
The ULlu-TAU-CHANA massif is located in the main Caucasian ridge in the upper reaches of the ADYR-SU gorge. This area is frequently visited by climbers and is very well studied.
From a sporting perspective, the ULlu-TAU massif is of great interest. Only from the north, 4 routes of 5B category difficulty have been laid. The routes on the northern walls are combined and quite extensive (≈ 1000 m). All routes laid from the north are characterized by steep ice sections of sufficient length. The route taken in the winter of 1965 lies between two well-known routes - the walls leading to the Central and Eastern peaks.
Description of the ascent
March 16. The duo CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI went to a bivouac located under the wall, with the aim of re-connaissance, so that in case of good weather and route conditions, they could start processing the route on the morning of March 17. (The remaining participants in the camp were finishing their training program).
March 17. At 7:00, the rope team CHERNOSLIVIN - KHERGIANI started processing the route. MARGIANI, RUZHEVSKY, SOKOLOVSKY, POROKHNYA left the camp for the bivouac at 12:00. The approach to the bivouac (in winter) takes about 4 hours. (Deep snow, skis). Soon after the main group arrived at the bivouac, the duo returned from processing. They managed to process 90 m of ice and 30 m of steep rock ("island") during the day. See photo-diagram. So, 10 hours and 120 meters. The ice is steep (50°), very dense, movement is only possible with 12-tooth crampons. The island rocks are completely steep, requiring the use of advanced rock climbing techniques.
March 18. The MARGIANI-RUZHEVSKY rope team started processing the route at 7:00 and worked until 16:00, processing the remaining, more complex part of the "island" and the lower slabby rocks. A total of 70 m. All work, except on the slabs, was done on a platform using piton hooks.
March 19. At 6:00, the group fully started on the route and covered 190 m of processed path. Backpacks were pulled up to the "island". By 14:00, the group managed to pass another 120 m of difficult, smooth rocks. To organize belays, they had to hammer in piton hooks, as cracks for normal ones were closed with ice. A bivouac was set up here. For 4 hours, four people took turns chopping a step in the unyielding ice slope, so that all six could sit in it. Two people (CHERNOSLIVIN and KHERGIANI) processed 120 m of ice (≈ 55°) during this time, with rock inclusions. The tent did not stand on the chopped-out ledge. The tent was hung on ice hooks, where they sat with their backs to the slope. The night was cold, and frost formed in the tent, covering warm clothes.
March 20. Departure at 7:00. The whole day was spent working on the ice without stopping. The steepness increases with each rope length. Bad weather started in the second half of the day. To the right, a "knife" is visible, which can be used to compare the steepness of the slope. It reaches 60-65°, see photo-diagram. There are 40 m of difficult rocks before the ridge. KHERGIANI was the first to pass this section. It took 2 hours 30 minutes to pass it. They reached the ridge in the dark. Very cold.
March 21. At 7:00, the group started moving along the ridge towards the eastern peak. In some places, they had to use a shovel. After 2 hours 30 minutes, they reached the peak and began their descent to the south, towards the "zaplAtinskiy nochyovki". The descent to the hut took 12 hours. The rocks were heavily snowed in. Bad weather. They reached the hut in the dark.
March 22. Descent to the camp on skis, which were brought in advance.
Main difficulties
It's hard to identify the main difficulty on the route. The route is straightforward and uniformly difficult. From the basal crevasse to the ridge, the wall can be divided into two main sections: a) Rock island - 90°. b) Ice slope 60-65°.
The ice is very difficult from start to finish. Crampons (forged, filed) hold poorly. It takes a lot of effort to hammer in a hook. Often, when hammering, large "scales" break off, or a long crack starts from the hook along the entire slope.
The main ice hook turns into a "drill" when unscrewed - it warps. It has to be chopped out. Ice fragments cause a lot of trouble for the lower team members (helmets are a must).
The team was saved by: screw hooks and jumar.
On a 60 m rope, there were 4 screw hooks + 2 regular main hooks. All ice was passed with 12-tooth crampons. The rock island is very difficult. It is completely steep. (After even the heaviest snowfall, this is the only black spot on the entire ULlu-TAU massif)... Passing the island required advanced rock climbing techniques, work on a double rope, ladders, etc. The high-altitude suit on the complex rock wall made movement very difficult. There is not a single place on the route where a tent can be set up. And, of course, the cold was also a major difficulty. Feet in sheepskin boots froze. (Crampons were not removed anywhere except on the island and the exit to the ridge). The air temperature was -25…-30 °C, and even lower at night. On 970 m of the wall, 136 hooks were hammered in: (45 screw hooks, 25 main ice hooks, 40 rock hooks, and 26 piton hooks). Food on the wall was taken at a rate of 550 g per person per day. Comparing the ascent to previous ones, the group unanimously believes that the ascent up the northern wall with an exit to the eastern peak of ULlu-TAU-CHANA is not inferior in difficulty to its "neighbors" - the northern walls leading to the eastern and northern peaks, and, as climbers say, is fully worth 5B category difficulty.