Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — winter

2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus

3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.

4. Complexity category — 5B

5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m

6. Number of driven pitons:

7. Number of travel hours/days — 14/1

8. Overnight stays — 0

9. Leader: Muralev A.N. CMS Participants: Slepnev P.I. CMS Senior coach: Tinin Yu.P. CMS

10. Departure to the route 13.02.96. Summit 13.02.96. Return 14.02.96.

11. Organization FAIS Moscow

The northern wall of Ullu-Tau-chan with an exit to the eastern summit. Passed March 16–22, 1965.

Photo 1. General view of the route. Taken on 12.02.96 from the "central rocks" at 12:15.

Preparation for the Ascent

The Ullu-Tau mountain, standing at the head of the Adyrsu gorge, constantly attracts mountaineers with its convenient location, beauty, and the difficulty of its northern wall. The northern wall of Ullu-Tau in winter is an abundance of brittle ice, interspersed with rock outcrops covered with flow ice. Only before sunset, the sun's rays sparingly silver the ridge rocks of Ullu-Tau, without touching the ice dumps of the northern wall.

The favorable moment for a winter ascent to Ullu-Tau is that the probability of rockfalls is reduced. All the stones of the "rock islands" are held together by ice, and even during the day, there is no thawing, which increases the safety of the ascent.

Based on the experience of previous winter ascents, it was planned to complete the route in one day, avoiding overnight stays on the wall. Due to the fact that the Ullu-Tau ridge in winter is a destroyed rock, covered with snow, with a sufficient number of snow drifts and cornices, it was decided to descend via the Manucharov route, which we had taken the previous winter.

To ensure a reliable base under the slopes of Ullu-Tau (for overnight stays near the central rocks), a cave was dug. The presence of a cave under the route allowed for the creation of a base with the necessary supply of equipment and products for the ascent and a possible weather sit-out.

The team had already acquired sufficient acclimatization (01/20/96 — ascent to the Kurmychi peak, 1B category; 02/05/96 — ascent to the Shkhelda Central peak via the right edge of the northern wall, 5B category) to complete the ascent in one day.

In addition, the trip to the mountains was preceded by an active training process, which included weekly cross-country runs, climbing on artificial training equipment, and walking in crampons on trees.

Tactical Plan

The tactical plan was drawn up based on observations of the route, consultations with the KSP, and the coach's recommendations. Based on the previous experience of a winter ascent to Ullu-Tau in 1995, it was planned to pass the route in one day.

The following factors were taken into account:

1. Short daylight hours from 7:00 to 17:30. In this regard, an early departure was planned with the possibility of working on snow and ice sections in the dark (headlamps with power packs), utilizing the entire daylight period, and having reserve places for overnight stays. Regular rotation of the lead climber on the route was also planned.
2. Unstable weather, low temperatures. In this regard, it was planned to use high-quality equipment, footwear, and clothing: — high-altitude double tent — double high-altitude plastic boots — multi-layered clothing made of modern fabrics (Polartec, Gore-Tex) and down, thermal masks — high-calorie nutrition and an additional reserve of fuel
3. Heavy icing and snowing of rock sections. It was planned to pass all sections using a double UIAA rope. Passage of the wall part of the route on ice. The use of a wide range of pitons, nut protection, ice screws, crampons-platforms, and ice axes to ensure safety. Insurance on snow and ice sections was piton-only.
4. Ensuring safety: — regular radio communication with KSP and the observation group; — visual (binoculars) monitoring of the group on the route; — availability of a medical kit and the possibility of qualified medical consultation via radio; — ability to work on snow and ice sections in the dark (headlamps with power packs); — reserve fuel and nutrition supply; — possibility of retreating via the ascent route from any point.

Tactical Actions of the Team and Route Description

On 02/12/96 at 7:00, the team set out on the approach. The team was provided with food for three days at a rate of 400 g of dry product per person per day and the necessary fuel reserve: 3 × 250 g gas canisters. By around 12:00, they reached the central rocks and began digging a cave. By 15:00, the cave was ready.

On the night of 02/13/96, at 3:00, they departed on the route. While moving in the dark, they used headlamps, as prolonged work in the dark was planned, and each had a spare set of batteries. The weather was windy and frosty.

Overcoming the closed crevasses of the Ullu-Tau glacier (moving on a full rope length), by 5:30, they approached the start of the route — section 1 — the "bergshrund."

From the bergshrund, along a firn-ice slope of 90 m, they approached the ice couloir on the left side of the first (lower) rock island (R1–R2). Along the couloir, 60 m, to the exit onto the ice slope (R2–R3). Along the ice-snow slope, after 140 m, they approached the lower right part of the middle rock "island." 8:20 (R3–R4). Simultaneous movement on a full rope length with insurance via ice screws. Bypassing the "island" on the right along ice couloirs (section R4–R5, insurance via ice screws), they reached the base of the ice "mirror."

Around noon, the weather began to deteriorate, and snow pellets started falling. Having passed the "mirror" (R5–R6, simultaneous movement on a full rope length with insurance via ice screws), by 13:40, they found themselves at the upper rock belt before exiting onto the ridge. Unfortunately, the onset of bad weather slightly reduced the pace of movement. Snow flowing down the wall and strong winds required more thorough organization of insurance when passing the route.

At 14:20, having overcome a rope length of snowy rocks, they exited onto the ridge (R6–R7).

Along the несложным заснеженным скалам гребня, придерживаясь его южной стороны (закладки, крючьевая страховка), в 17:10 вышли на вершину Уллу-Тау восточная. В 17:30 начали спуск. Так как маршрут спуска был нам знаком по прошлому году, поэтому он не вызвал у нас затруднений.

By 2:00 at night, they were back in the cave. The safety of the ascent was ensured by: — regular communication with KSP, the observation group, which also visually monitored the team on the route. Radio communication sessions: 8:00, 14:00, 18:00 — the team had a medical kit with a set of anti-shock and pain-relieving medications, as well as means against frostbite. — the presence of a rescue team in the Adyl-Su gorge. — fuel (gas), food was taken with a one-day reserve, and there were also spare sets of power sources for headlamps. — in case of bad weather, there was a tent for an overnight stay on the ridge. — the route was passed using a double UIAA rope first, with the lead climber changing every four rope lengths.