AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m

3. Route Description

Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit:

• to the North
• to the Northwest
• to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.

42. Adyr­su via the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge (combined route by Yu. Kuz­netsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullu­tau” al­plager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper pla­teau of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier with the initial bi­vouac on the left-bank mo­re­ne of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier is de­scri­bed in route 43. In the upper part of the cir­que, cross the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier (clo­sed cre­vasses) and ap­proach un­der the slope of the ice-and-snow cou­loir on the left side — at the base of the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge of Adyr­su peak. From the initial bi­vouac, 1.5–2 hours. From the gla­cier, after pas­sing the berg­schrund:

• 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow cou­loir,
• then tra­verse 40 m up — left through this cou­loir,

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2. preliminary The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi, category 4A, via the Granovskiy Pass, elevation 4370 m. The nature of the route is predominantly rocky and icy. The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi is located in the northern Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range. Several ridges lead to the summit, including the southern one, descending to the Granovskiy Pass. Day 1 Approaches to the Granovskiy Pass are made:

• via the Mestia trail,

8-2.4.1.173

Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from the Chipperazau Pass to the Ortokara peak

Report

on the first ascent to the Adyrsu peak (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion in the period from July 19 to July 22, 2008 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Monaenkov E.I. - leader
• Bulocnikov V.S. - participant
• Sandin S.A. - participant

Table of Contents

• Climbing passport (Appendix No. 1) — 3
• General view photo of the route — 5

Report

on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Privalov S.A. - leader
• Olkhovikov A.V.

Contacts

AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:

The Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperaza pass to Ortokara peak

Report

on the first ascent to Adyrsu peak (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from July 19 to July 22, 2008, by the AUSB "Ullutau" sports team consisting of:

• Monayenkov E.I. — team leader
• Bulocnikov V.S. — team member
• Sandin S.A. — team member AUS "Ullutau" 2008

Addresses

AUS "Ullutau": 361602, KBR, Nalchik, ph. 8 (8662) 77–09–87

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area according to KTMGV — Caucasus. From Chiperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Serov Peak 4080 m, Southeast wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation difference 500 m
   • Average steepness 45–50°
   • Section length:

185. Asmashi Peak via the West Ridge (combined route, Tomasheka, Cat. 3B, Fig. 24, 27). From the Asmashi Pass (170 m) turn right and ascend a steep snow-and-ice slope with rock outcrops on the right side of the North Buttress (cornices, protection) of Asmashi's West Ridge onto the shoulder of the West Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow a gently sloping, simple, long, in places narrow snow-covered (cornices) rocky West Ridge («live» rocks, protection); surmount the I and II gendarmes on steep moderately difficult rocks («live» rocks, pitons) and ascend a snow-and-ice slope to the summit of Asmashi. 6–7 hr from the Asmashi Pass.