- Adyrsu via the Northern counterfort of the Western edge (combined route by Yu. Kuznetsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullutau” alplager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper plateau of the Severny Adyrsu glacier with the initial bivouac on the left-bank morene of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 43. In the upper part of the cirque, cross the Severny Adyrsu glacier (closed crevasses) and approach under the slope of the ice-and-snow couloir on the left side —
at the base of the Northern counterfort of the Western edge of Adyrsu peak. From the initial bivouac, 1.5–2 hours.
From the glacier, after passing the bergschrund:
- 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow couloir,
- then traverse 40 m up — left through this couloir,
- further up snow-covered rocks to the inner angle.
From here, ascend 40 m to the right up snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty onto the Northern counterfort.
Along a gently sloping easy ice-and-snow slope (protection), then up steep snow-covered monolithic rocks of medium difficulty (piton protection) and again up a steep ice-and-snow (protection) Northern counterfort, ascend 150–160 m under the take-off of the Western edge.
Along the left side of the steep ice-and-snow couloir and destroyed snow-covered steep rocks of medium difficulty of the inner angle, ascend 120–130 m (piton protection) onto the Western edge.
Here, turn left and along snow-covered easy, sometimes steep, medium difficulty monolithic rocks of the Western edge, ascend 250–300 m, overcoming gendarmes and walls head-on (piton protection), onto the ice-and-snow dome of the peak. Along an easy gently sloping ice-and-snow 400-meter slope of the Western edge, ascend to the Adyrsu peak. From the Severny Adyrsu glacier, 7–9 hours.