Genaldon

First ascent description of Tbau East peak via the Eastern ridge of the South-East bastion, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for passage.

Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8 Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent. Route type: rock. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness: main part of the route: 75°; entire route: 65°. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Ascent to the summit Tbau Eastern (2832 m) via the eastern edge of the south-eastern bastion, complexity category 5B, rock route.

Ascent Passport Rocky ridge; Classification section № 2.8 96 Tbau East (2832 m), via the Eastern edge of the Southeast bastion. 5B category of difficulty Route type: rock Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS) Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 150 m. Average steepness: — main part of the route: 75°

*Suatisi Traverse — Geologov Peak — Jimarai — Shau-khokh — Druzhba Peak — Zaigelan, Midograbin Glacier, 1965, Climbing Report*

Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya" Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A. Minsk 1965 Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk. Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections. "It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray" Ossetian proverb

Ascent to Peak 25-letiya SKGMI (3840 m) from the east, category of difficulty II-B + III-A, from the valley of Belaya River via the eastern spur.

Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m) from the east 2B + 3A cat. diff. The peak is located at the extreme eastern end of the Central Caucasus, in the Kazbek group of peaks of the Lateral Ridge. The peak is the easternmost summit in the Northeast spur from the Kazbek Firn Plateau, consisting consecutively of the peaks: Peak "4005 m", Iriston Peak (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850 m", South Kaijany (3916 m), North Kaijany (3969 m), Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m). The massif of the peak and its eastern spurs separate the river basins - tributaries of the Terek: to the south - Koba-khi and upstream of its tributary - Chach-khi, to the north - the Belaya River. On the western and eastern slopes of the peak, one small dying cirque glacier has survived. The massif is composed mainly of clay shales, with separate outcrops of intrusive rocks. The slopes are significantly covered with talus. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the North Caucasus Institute of Mining and Metallurgy led by I. Suzhaev in 1956 via the simplest route from the Chach valley (2A cat. diff.). In subsequent years, ascents from the Chach valley were made repeatedly. In July 1971, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze (SO ASSR) led by R.P. Proskuryakov made the first ascent to the peak from the east, from the Belaya River valley. A description of the route is given below.

### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4312 in the Caucasus via the North Spur, Category 3B Completed in 1994 by a team led by Andrey Gorbunov.

Climbing Passport Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Caucasus: 2,86 Genaldon river gorge Peak, route: p. 4312: via N. ridge from the Maili glacier (named after Tsarakhov T.) Estimated category of difficulty: 3B — first ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 1800 m, route length — 2400 m, length of sections — 4th category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 600 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° Pitons used: rock — none ice screws — 16 Number of climbing hours (days) — 30 (3)

Ascent of Peak "3850" (North Ossetia) via the northern ice-rocky edge, category of complexity 2B.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north: Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m) Peak Iriston (4000 m) Chach-khokh (4100 m) Peak "3850" South Kaidzhani (3916 m) North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.

Description of a new route to the summit 3933 m (Pamyati Karmadontsev) via the North-Eastern ridge from the Kauridon gorge, category 2A complexity.

Photo 1. General view of peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). The first ascent route is marked. Photo taken from the middle part of the Kauridon gorge. MACLUTAE 1:400000 Photo 2. Panoramic view of the area. Routes marked: number 1 – to Kaydzhany Mal. via North ridge, category 1B; number 2 – to Kaydzhany Severnaya via North ridge, category 2A; number 3 – first ascent route to peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). Also marked:

Climbing passport for Pik Pamyati Karmadonstev (3933 m) via North-West buttresses of the North-East ridge, category 2A.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, Kazbek region, Kauridon gorge, KMGV section number - 2.8. Pik Pamyati Karmadontsev; 3933 m, via North-West buttresses of North-East ridge. Proposed category: 2A; first ascent. Route type — combined. Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length is about 2000 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty is 10 m. Average slope: main part of the route is about 50°. entire route is about 30°.

### Traverse of Midagrabin-Hokh and Tep-Hokh Peaks in Central Caucasus A challenging mountaineering route with a 4-5 complexity category. The traverse encompasses stunning scenery and technical climbing sections. #### Key Features: * **Location**: Central Caucasus * **Complexity**: 4-5 category * **Notable Peaks**: Midagrabin-Hokh, Tep-Hokh * The route involves traversing two significant peaks, offering breathtaking views and demanding climbing sections.

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features: To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls. To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:

Description of a new 3A category alpine route via the South face of the East ridge of Kuardjin East peak in Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number — 2.8. Kuardjin East (2600 m); via the South wall of the East ridge. Proposed 3A category; first ascent. Route character — rock climbing. Route height difference – 320 m. Length of the wall part – 415 m. Total route length – 715 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of key sections 80–90°. Pitons left on the route – 5. Team's working hours – 8 hours; days – 2.