Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

1. Class: snow-ice.
2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.

Passport

1. Ice class
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
6. Ice screws 26 pcs.
7. Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stay not required.
9. Leader Kirikov A.

PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
4. Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
6. Ice screws 21 pcs.
7. Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
8. Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
• the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
• there is a hut on the moraine.
• from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,

Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).