Aktru

Mountain range54.93 km²
johnlepikhinJjohnlepikhin
January 31, 2026
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Route Description: центру СЗ склона

Ascent of p. UPI via the centre of NW slope, a new ice route of 2B category of complexity, Altai Mountains, Severo-Chuysky Range.

  1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
  2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
  3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
  4. Nature of the route: ice.
  5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:
  • 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
  • 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:
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Ascent to Mt. Aktru via the eastern wall (4A cat. of difficulty) through rocky islands and icy slopes, route description and key obstacles.

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

  • Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
  • Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.
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Description of the route to the summit of Aktru via the eastern ridge from the Big Aktru glacier, complexity category 3A.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

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Route Description: Ю склону

Description of a new Category IIb route to the summit of Aktru (4044 m) via the South Face, Altai, with a detailed breakdown of sections and technical details.

Ascent Record

  1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
  2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
  3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
  6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
  7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
  8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.
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Route Description: ледовому кулуару С стены

Ascent to the summit Snezhnaya (3800 m) in Altai via the ice gully of the southern wall, grade 5A-5B, first ascent in 1991.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
  3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
  4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).
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Route Description: СЗ кулуару С стены

Ascent to the top of Karatash via North-west couloir of the North face, first ascent, 3A cat. dif., Altai, Aktru valley.

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Climbing Passport No. 2

  1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
  2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
  3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
  4. The route is ice and snow.
  5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
  6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.
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Route Description: ЮВ кулуару СВ гребня

Description of a category 3B route to the Karatash peak via the SE couloir of the NE ridge in the North-Chuya Range in Altai.

Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
  4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
  5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
  6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
  7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
  8. No overnight stay required.
  9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category.
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Route Description: С склону

Description of the route on the northern slope of Radistov peak in Altai, category 3A difficulty level, first ascent in 1997.

PASSPORT

  1. Snow and ice class.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
  4. Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
  5. Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
  6. Ice screws 21 pcs.
  7. Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
  8. Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
  9. Drakin A.V. CMS
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Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня

Description of the 1B category route to the summit of V. Radistov (V.) via the southern couloir in the Aktru gorge in Altai.

V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991

Passport

  1. Class — snow-ice.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
  4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
  6. Moving time 7 hours.
  7. The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.
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Route Description: С склону З гребня

Description of a new Category IIIB climbing route to the Vostochnaia (Eastern) summit of Radistov (3750 m) in the Severo-Chuysky Range on Altai, with a detailed description of traversing the gully and the western ridge.

Passport

  1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
  2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
  3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
  4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
  5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
  6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).
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