V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope.

Further:

  • go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
  • the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
  • there is a hut on the moraine.
  • from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking.

From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir, which is separated from the snow-ice slopes by a narrow rock buttress. In summer, the couloir may be rockfall-prone, so an early start under the route is recommended.

In its lower part, the couloir has a branch to the left in the form of a narrow couloir, along which one can ascend to the depression in the northern ridge. From this depression, move up along the northern ridge over broken rocks with piton belays. The rocks lead to a snow-ice slope, which goes up with three narrow couloirs in the form of a "chicken's paw". Ascend via the middle one to the rocks and along them reach the saddle on the eastern ridge of Radistov Peak. Further, ascend along the snow-ice ridge to Radistov Peak. Time: 5–6 hours.

Descent via route 1B, category III, down the couloir on the southern slope, or through Maa­shey Pass to the moraine lake (2–3 hours).

Author: S. Kostr­u­lev, Bratsk, Nem­t­sev S.Yu. and others

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