Aktru

Report on the first ascent of category 3B route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the icy slope of the northwestern wall.

Report ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022 I. Ascent Passport | №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | | | :------ | :------------------------------------------------------------ | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Karlin Sergey Fedorovich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Participants: Tokareva Margarita Andreevna — 2nd sports rank, Tokarev Vitaly Viktorovich — 2nd sports rank, Khabarov Dmitry Alexandrovich — 3rd sports rank, Ryabinin Viktor Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank, Polivaeva Daria Andreevna — 3rd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Makarov Oleg Nikolaevich CMS | | 1.4 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Participants: Melekhov Mikhail Gennadievich — 3rd sports rank, Kharitonov Sergey Vladimirovich — 3rd sports rank |

Report on the first ascent of the route category 1Б to the summit Yubileynaya (3403 m) from the Container pass in Altai.

Report on the first ascent of the route to the summit Yubileynaya from the Container pass, category 1B, by the team of the Sports club of alpinists "Voshozhdenie" (Barnaul) on May 3, 2019 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, CMS | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Belov Petr Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank Volkov Anton Leonidovich, 3rd sports rank Zanina Natalia Nikolaevna, 2nd sports rank Korobko Tatyana Vitalievna, 3rd sports rank Malyshkin Vladimir Alexandrovich, 3rd sports rank Pechyonkina Lyudmila Nikolaevna, 3rd sports rank Shubin Alexander Yurievich, 3rd sports rank |

Climbing route description (Category 1B difficulty) to Yubileynaya Peak (3403 m) in the North Chuya Range via the south-eastern couloir of the north-eastern ridge.

1.2.114 Passport 1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktru gorge. Peak Yubileynaya 3403: via south-eastern couloir of north-eastern ridge Proposed: Category 1B difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Note: height (3403.2) — according to the published online map M 1:50000 Altitude difference according to group's altimeter: 3400–2940 = 460 m. Route length: couloir — 500 m (estimated), ridge — 450 m (estimated), total — 950 m (estimated), including Category I difficulty section — 180 m from 45° to 60°. Average steepness of the entire route — 30° (estimated).

Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 3B category of complexity on UpI peak (3603 m) via the right part of the NW slope.

UPI Peak 3603 m 07451 Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k) Participants: Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu. Ascent Passport North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.

Report on the passage of a 4A category difficulty route to the summit UPI via an ice gully along the rocky counterfort of the NW slope.

V. UPI 3603 m REPORT of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on completing the ascent to v. UPI via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope "4A" (k) Participants Temerev I.M. Lizin I.S. ASCENT DETAILS: North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley, 102 Peak UPI, via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope.

Ascent of p. UPI via the centre of NW slope, a new ice route of 2B category of complexity, Altai Mountains, Severo-Chuysky Range.

Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge. v. UPI, center of the NW slope. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed. Nature of the route: ice. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 2 cat. sl. — 550 m. 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

The ascent to the summit of UPI from the north, category 2B, includes overcoming an icefall, snowy-ice slopes and a sharp ridge with piton belay.

V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff. From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Karatash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

Traverse of the Studenov and Yunost peaks, category 2B complexity, via Bolshoy Akturu Glacier and rocky ridge with the key section "Bolshoy zhandarm" - a rocky "saw".

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff. From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak: At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one. Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw". Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge. The "saw" is the key section of the route. After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.

Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit Studentskaya-Vostochnaya 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge, including detailed technical information and photographs.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed: Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length: to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

Description of the 2B category complexity route to the Stazherov peak in the North-Chuya Range on Altai with details of passage and technical characteristics.

PASSPORT Category of first ascent. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge. V. Stazerov, 3rd category (3750 m) 2B first ascent is proposed. Descent from Bolshoy Aktru glacier is 760 m, length is 1600 m. Ice screws — 5 pieces. Travel hours from camp to camp — 10 hours. Overnight stay was not organized, approach and overnight stay are possible (at "Goluboe ozero").