- Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II).
The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18.
From the bivouac:
- Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
- Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
- Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
- Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
- Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
- Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
- Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope
- Overcome the bergschrund
- Ascend 300–350 m up the icy-snowy slope on the left side of the North counterforce (belay!) to the yellow rocks
- Ascend a 35–40-meter icy-rocky chimney to the left of the yellow rocks, up and to the right, onto a rocky shoulder
- Traverse a steep icy-snowy slope — a couloir (belay! avalanches!) 200–240 m to the right and up towards the right gully descending from the upper rocky part of the North counterforce
- Ascend the right side of the 120–150-meter gully (pitons belay!) onto the counterforce
- Bivouac on a platform on the counterforce. From the initial bivouac — 10–12 hours.
From the bivouac:
- Ascend 400 m up the rocky-snowy, then snowy counterforce (belay!) below the rocky belt, which passes 40–50 m to the right of the couloir
- Ascend first through a 60-meter rocky-icy chimney (pitons?)
- A short traverse to the right and up through a second 50–60-meter chimney (pitons!)
- Further ascent up a straightforward rocky-snowy slope onto the rocky belt
- From the belt, ascend 250–300 m up a straightforward icy-snowy slope (avalanches!) below the North ridge of Koshtantau
- Move along a wide snowy ridge (cornices!) and fields towards the summit of Koshtantau. From the bivouac — 8–10 hours.
Descent: via the ascent route or the Northeast ridge (see description 35).
Recommendations for climbers:
- Number of participants — 4–5 people.
- Initial bivouac — Southern ridge of the Utug crag.
- Departure time — 4–5 am.
- Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; expendable cordelette — 5 m; cordelette for descent — 40 m; rock pitons — 7–8; ice pitons — 4–6; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
- Bivouac locations — on the upper plateau of the Mizhyrgi glacier, on a platform in the upper rocky part of the North counterforce, and on the North ridge of Koshtantau.