Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall.

Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite).

From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:

• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace.

Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope.

Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

From here, ascend a steep icy chute (60–80 m) (piton use required!) to reach a gentle snow slope leading to the saddle between Ptitsa Peak and the "Kupol" gendarme.

There are good camping areas here (4–6 hours from the plateau).

From the campsite, keeping to the ridge, ascend a snowy-icy slope (avalanche risk!) to Kupol. Be aware that large cornices hang to the left along the route, and it is advisable to stay below the line of potential cornice collapse!

Descend from the summit to the saddle leading to the first gendarme. (Watch out for cornices on both sides of the ridge along the entire route!) There is a campsite here.

The first gendarme is climbed directly, on its left part. After the summit of the gendarme, descend on broken rocks to a snowy saddle (small gendarmes are bypassed on the right) and then along the snowy ridge to the second gendarme.

Under the second gendarme, there is a good camping area on the right on ledges. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right by a traverse along a steep snowy slope (20 m). Then, along a ledge (10–15 m) and beyond the gendarme, 10 m up a narrow couloir (piton use required!). The gendarme can also be climbed directly. Further, a rugged ridge leads to the third gendarme, which is climbed directly on simple rocks.

Above the third gendarme, move along a snowy ridge to the summit, which is a rise in the ridge. A cairn is located on rocks to the southeast of the highest point. The ascent from the campsite on the saddle between Ptitsa and Kupol takes 7–8 hours. Descent along the ascent route with a rappel from the first gendarme takes about 6 hours. Descent from the saddle to the "3900" campsite takes 3–5 hours.

A tent and camping gear are mandatory until the second gendarme!