Djety-Oguz

Description of the route 5A cat. difficulty level to the Toleni peak (4100 m) via the East face in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Rock class. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors Travel time: 12 hours. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

### Ascent Route to Tulenin Peak (4100 m) via the East Face in Tian Shan Category 5A climb description.

Passport I. Rock class. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

Description of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the peak S. Ir­senin (4240 m) in the Terskey Alatoo ridge with the main technical characteristics and the composition of the group.

Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge Summit — p. S. Irsenina, 4240 m, Ashutor 114 pass Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/хi-83. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |

Description of a combined route to Peak S. Tolenen (4240 m) via Apu-Tor Pass in the Terskey Ala-Too range of Tian Shan, with a detailed analysis of the ascent and descent paths.

TIAN-SHAN TERSKEI-ALATAU RANGE (Karakol gorge) S. Tyulenina Peak (4240 m) via Ashutor Pass The route is approximately Category 3B, combined Sitchikhin Yu.V., Ryabukhin A.G., Meshkova N.B., Karpenkov M.N., August 12, 1982 Photo 1. General view of the summit Photo 2. Fragment of the general view (bastion)

Description of the first ascent route to Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the center of the eastern wall, category 5B difficulty level, in Tian-Shan.

Ascent Certificate ASCENT CLASS: technical ASCENT AREA: Tian-Shan, Ontor gorge, Kara-Kol area PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the center of the Eastern wall. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: rocky ELEVATION DIFFERENCE: glacier–summit 900 m, wall section 250 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: wall section 75–85°, entire route 40–50°. LENGTH OF 5–6 difficulty category sections: 280 m PITS DRIVEN:

Description of the ascent to Peak Karbyshev via the southern ridge, category 4B, made by a group led by Alexander Soldatov in 2003.

Ascent Log p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table. Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge. Proposed category of difficulty is 4B. Route type — combined. Height difference — 630 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°. Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs. No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.

Description of the traverse of the peaks Karbyshev, Blücher, and Tukhachevsky via a Category III difficulty route, successfully climbed by the Zenit team in 1976.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: Traverse Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau Ascent route: Traverse of Peaks Karbyshev, Blyukher, and Tukhachevsky from north to south, ascending Peak Karbyshev via the southern edge. Ascent description: Ascent to Peak Karbyshev is category 5A difficulty. Traverse length is 2600 m. Height difference between peaks and cols is 400 m. Length of technically difficult sections is 850 m. Number of pitons: Rock - 142, ice - 15

Technical ascent description of Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the Eastern Ridge in the Central Tian Shan with a difficulty level of 3B.

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge. Estimated difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays. Number of climbing hours: from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours. from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes. ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

Traversing Khak-Dyuklo peaks and Akstinasas peak in the Karakol gorge of Tian Shan, category 3A, description of the first ascent route.

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR May 21, 1970 TRAVERSING THE PEAKS OF JACQUES DUCLÔS — 4270 m — 4270 m — PIK G. AKSTINASA (KARAKOL VALLEY, TIAN SHAN) Leader: B. BINKAUSKAS, first ascent Route Description Traversing Jacques Duclôs – 4270 m – 4270 m – Pik G. Akstinasa Category 3A route The route starts from a campsite on the left moraine of the On-tor Glacier (see Scheme I). The campsite is well-protected from the wind, and there is water available, but it's necessary to dig trenches around the tents to avoid trouble from water flows resulting from rain. The ascent to Jacques Duclôs Peak begins with a climb straight up from the campsite. The route then proceeds through the following sections:

First ascent description of Peak Dementiev (4202 m) in the Teskey Ala-Too range via the northern slope of the eastern ridge, grade 3A.

Ascent Log Region of ascent: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol gorge Peak Dementyev 4202 m via the north slope of the eastern ridge Proposed 3A category of difficulty. First ascent. Nature of the route — combined Route elevation gain 500 m (by altimeter) Route length 800 m Used on the route: ice screws — 15, rock pitons and protection gear — 0, bolt hangers — 0