1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol)
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m
6. Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10
7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours
8. Team composition:

I. Technical Category 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress 4. Proposed category: 5B 5. Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. 6. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

2. Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge
3. Summit — p. S. Ir­se­nina, 4240 m, As­hu­tor 114 pass
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/х­i-83.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |

TIAN-SHAN TERSKEI-ALATAU RANGE (Karakol gorge) S. Tyulenina Peak (4240 m) via Ashutor Pass The route is approximately Category 3B, combined Sitchikhin Yu.V., Ryabukhin A.G., Meshkova N.B., Karpenkov M.N., August 12, 1982 Photo 1. General view of the summit Photo 2. Fragment of the general view (bastion)

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Summit — Slonënok peak, height — 4726 m, ascent route — Northwest counterfort.
4. Proposed complexity category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1160 m, average steepness — 72°, section lengths:

• 2nd difficulty category — 260 m.
• 3rd difficulty category — 17 m.
• 4th difficulty category — 111 m.

Ascent Passport

on Mt. Slonionok via the NW buttress (first ascent)

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area
3. Peak, its height, route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade, average steepness
6. Number of pitons driven for belaying, for creating belay stations
7. Number of climbing hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1