Kyngarga

Report on the first ascent of category 3B route on the right part of the Western wall of Bronenosets peak (2430 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.

Report On the first ascent The peak Bronenosets (2430 m) - Right part of the Western wall - Route 3B cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent - Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Anisovets S.Yu. Valiev V.O. Vasin I.K. Marzaev A.Yu. Tsynguev B.Ts.

Report on the first ascent of a Category 3A route via the right-hand south-eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Bratchanaka peak (2501 m) in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan.

Report On the First Ascent Peak Bratchanaka (2501 m) Right Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge. Route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A. A. Participants: Ilyinskiy V. A. Tokmachev A. A. Ascent completed on January 26, 2019. I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | |

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Arshan (2546 m) via the eastern slope, category 2A difficulty level, by the Baikal Alpine School team.

Report ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MT. ARSHAN VIA THE EASTERN SLOPE, APPROXIMATELY 2A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE TEAM FROM BAIKAL ALPINISM SCHOOL ON OCTOBER 8, 2020. I. Climbing Report | No. | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :----------------------------------------------------: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team members | Vasiliev V.P., Gordov A.V., Nikonov A.A., Plotnikov D.A., Ryazantsev M.S., Tkachev V.Yu. | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Baikal Alpine School | | 2. Characteristics of the Climb Object | | |

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Trëhglavaja via the Eastern couloir, traverse, category 2A complexity, with details on passing sections and safety recommendations.

Ascent passport to the peak Trekhglavaya (C — N) 2557 m, via Eastern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, section 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhglavaya (C — N), 2557 m, via Eastern couloir, traverse. 3. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent. 4. Route character — combined. 5. Height difference 300 m, length 1400 m, average steepness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's moving hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanasiev S.A. III grade, Afanasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afanasiev A.E. MS. 11. Ascent to the peak and return on May 1, 2001. Description of the ascent route to the peak Trekhglavaya (C-N) 2557 m via Eastern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the reverse traverse of the classified route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhglavaya traverse, starting with the ascent via S ridge. This route starts from the descending couloir of eastern exposure between the peaks Southern and Central Trekhglavaya. Here is the descent from all routes to the Southern and Central peaks of Trekhglavaya, and sometimes people descend after ascending to the Northern Trekhglavaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow covered scree. Sometimes it is avalanche-hazardous. The upper part of the couloir is located in the narrow rocky jaws of the Southern and Central towers and snow here some years persists till the end of summer. Section R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Upper part of the couloir. On the bridge snow corniche up to 2 m. Ropes. Section R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− Ascent to the Central tower of Trekhglavaya can be done by two variants: first one via Southern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons; second — left of the ridge via descending path, one-two rope lengths. This section is the key one for the route 1B cat.

Traverse of the northern and central towers of Mt. Trekhglavaya via its NE ridge, with ascent by a Grade 2B route.

Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty Geographical information The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge). Route description

Traverse of the North and Central towers of v. Trëhglavaya via the NE ridge of the North tower, cat. IIb diff.

Traversing the North and Central Towers Trekhglavaya Peak with ascent via the NE ridge of the North Tower via route category 2B Geographic information The Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunka Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as the watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. The Tunka Goltsy range is the highest in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of kilometers. Its highest point, 3266 meters above sea level, is located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. The range has sharp alpine forms overall. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The tree line on southern slopes is at 1880 m, and on northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. Snow cover largely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers: the South, Central, and North Towers. The highest is the Central Tower, at 2511 meters above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. It takes 4 hours to reach the Base Camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers from the resort (upstream along the gorge). Route description

Description of a category IIIB route to the South Peak of Trekhglavaya (2533 m) via the Primo-Vostochny buttress in the Tunka Range, Eastern Sayan.

Ascent Record Route: South peak of Trekhglaaya peak, 2511 m a.s.l., via South-Eastern buttress Proposed difficulty category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference 636 m, average slope 50°. Pitons used: rock 19 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. Duration: 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: 0. Leader: Krasnukhin L.I., 1st sports category. Team members: Zhila A.Yu., 1st sports category, Bolshedvorsky V.V., 1st sports category, Lebedev V.G., 1st sports category, Ponomarchuk V.S., 1st sports category, Mishchurinsky B.A., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N. Ascent date: March 7, 1978. Irkutsk General view of Trekhglaaya peak Route completed by the group Previously climbed routes: 4B difficulty category

Description of the climbing route via the East Face of the Central Peak of Trëhglavaya (Three-headed) summit, including recommendations and details from a 1972 ascent.

56a Route Description on the East face of the Central Spire of TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak (2511 m). Group composition: Leader B. M. Belousov, V. M. Kharlamov, N. K. Laptev, Z. M. Boyarkina. Ascent dates: May 5-7, 1972. The group departed from the base camp, located at the forest boundary (≈1700 m), at 6:00 AM towards the lower part of the Central Spire's wall. The approach to the route's starting point takes 40-50 minutes. The route begins approximately 60 meters to the left and above the wall's lowest point, which transitions into scree without flattening. See photos 1, 3. The R0-R1 section follows a small counterfort protruding from the wall, with heavily fragmented rocks. See photo 3. Insurance is set up alternately through ledges. Be cautious of numerous loose rocks. The slope's steepness is 50°. Monolithic rocks follow oblique shelves, transitioning into an ascent to the upper part of this protruding counterfort. At the top of this section, the group changed from crampons to "vibram" boots. Brief Geographical Overview of the TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area, travel to the area, and approach to the base camp. The TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Belki ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge stretches clearly from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

Description of the ascent route category 4B to the Trekhglazaya summit in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the south-eastern wall with technical details and characteristics of the path.

Ascent Log Climbing type — rock climbing. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall. Estimated difficulty category — 4B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.

Description of the ascent route to the Central Tower of Trekhglavaya peak via the south-eastern buttress, category 4B, climbed by a group of climbers in 1972.

Route Description Via the south-eastern buttress of the Central peak of Trekhglavaya (2511 m) Group composition: leader Laptev N.K., Belousov V.M., Vorobyova N.P., Boyarkina Z.M. Date of ascent — 2–3 May 1972 The group set out on the route at 6:00 from the base camp in the direction of the huge canyon separating the Central and Southern peaks of Trekhglavaya. The base camp is conveniently located on the edge of the forest on the southern side of the cirque under the peak. The path initially goes with a slight gain in height, and then turns into a steep fine and medium scree. To start the route, it is necessary to: Enter the canyon Ascend along it, alongside the wall of the buttress, to a huge boulder protruding from under the snow (in summer — from under the scree) See photo I. The protruding boulder, having a diameter of 8 meters, is located 40–50 m from the lower point of the buttress and is not covered by snow even in winter. At this point, the altitude reading was 1900 m.