Climbing Report

To the summit of Bratchan­ka (2501 m) via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge (first ascent) Eastern Sayan Ridge, November 2012

Irkutsk — 2012. Climbing Passport

Region:

• Eastern Sayan
• Tun­kin­skie Goltsy
• Kyngarga gorge Peak — Bratchan­ka 2501 m. Route — via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge, proposed category

Brat­cha­nka

2. 2501 (Bratchikova)

Group Composition

1. Krasnukhin L.M., leader, 2nd sports category
2. Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports
3. Shvab A.E., 1st sports category
4. Rasputin A.K., 2nd sports category
5. Slastnikova T.E., 2nd sports category The route was completed on October 27, 1976.

Brief Geographical Overview

Peak 2501 is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Eastern Sayan, in the upper reaches of the Pravaya Kyngarga River gorge. To the south, the peak drops with steep rocky walls featuring three counterforts — left, central, and right, with an average steepness of 45°. (photo #1) To the north lies a steep, heavily dissected, and destroyed slope. To the east, it descends into a long, sharp ridge, continuing the main ridge of Tunkinskie Goltsy.

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Arshan (2546 m) via the East Counterfort, route 4A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Shcherban A.N.
• Resnyansky I.O.
• Generalchenko D.S. Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2.
2. Peak Arshan (2546 m), East counterfort.

38 Argunьба

X KIV /8

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Traverse of the peaks Druzhba — Arshan (Eastern Sayan)

Brief geographical description of the region

The peaks Druzhba and Arshan are located in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, in the Eastern Sayan, in a lateral spur. The western slopes of the spur drop steeply into the gorge of the Kyngarga river. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching latitudinally for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym river gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, the ridge has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The forest boundary:

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT ARSHAN VIA THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3A DIFFICULTY June 9, 2018

I. Climbing Passport

V. Arshan

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, p.6.1.1.
3. Arshan peak (2546), East buttress of the South ridge.
4. Proposed category 2A (first ascent).
5. Height difference of the route 470 m, length of the buttress — about 500 m, average steepness of the buttress 40°.
6. Used on the route: rock pitons — 1, chocks — 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 3 h 14 min.
8. Leader: Khandazhapov B. A. — Master of Sports. Participants: