Group Composition

1. Krasnukhin L.M., leader, 2nd sports category
2. Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports
3. Shvab A.E., 1st sports category
4. Rasputin A.K., 2nd sports category
5. Slastnikova T.E., 2nd sports category The route was completed on October 27, 1976.

Brief Geographical Overview

Peak 2501 is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Eastern Sayan, in the upper reaches of the Pravaya Kyngarga River gorge. To the south, the peak drops with steep rocky walls featuring three counterforts — left, central, and right, with an average steepness of 45°. (photo #1) To the north lies a steep, heavily dissected, and destroyed slope. To the east, it descends into a long, sharp ridge, continuing the main ridge of Tunkinskie Goltsy.

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
2. Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
3. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours – 9 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

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Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, p.6.1.1.
3. Arshan peak (2546), East buttress of the South ridge.
4. Proposed category 2A (first ascent).
5. Height difference of the route 470 m, length of the buttress — about 500 m, average steepness of the buttress 40°.
6. Used on the route: rock pitons — 1, chocks — 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 3 h 14 min.
8. Leader: Khandazhapov B. A. — Master of Sports. Participants:

Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
2. Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Right counterfort of the West wall.
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain — 230 m, length — 440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°.
6. Pitons used: rock and wired — 60 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team members:

Route Description

Via the south-eastern buttress of the Central peak of Trekhglavaya (2511 m) Group composition: leader Laptev N.K., Belousov V.M., Vorobyova N.P., Boyarkina Z.M. Date of ascent — 2–3 May 1972 The group set out on the route at 6:00 from the base camp in the direction of the huge canyon separating the Central and Southern peaks of Trekhglavaya. The base camp is conveniently located on the edge of the forest on the southern side of the cirque under the peak. The path initially goes with a slight gain in height, and then turns into a steep fine and medium scree. To start the route, it is necessary to:

• Enter the canyon
• Ascend along it, alongside the wall of the buttress, to a huge boulder protruding from under the snow (in summer — from under the scree) See photo I. The protruding boulder, having a diameter of 8 meters, is located 40–50 m from the lower point of the buttress and is not covered by snow even in winter. At this point, the altitude reading was 1900 m.

Ascent Record

Route: South peak of Trekhglaaya peak, 2511 m a.s.l., via South-Eastern buttress Proposed difficulty category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference 636 m, average slope 50°. Pitons used: rock 19 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. Duration: 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: 0. Leader: Krasnukhin L.I., 1st sports category. Team members: Zhila A.Yu., 1st sports category, Bolshedvorsky V.V., 1st sports category, Lebedev V.G., 1st sports category, Ponomarchuk V.S., 1st sports category, Mishchurinsky B.A., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N. Ascent date: March 7, 1978. Irkutsk

General view of Trekhglaaya peak

Route completed by the group

Previously climbed routes:

• 4B difficulty category

Route Diagram

Route Profile

Photo of the Middle Part of the Route Profile

Trëkhglavaya. North Tower. 2511. Category 4B, 650 m, 52°, 66 pitons, 13 hours. Afanasiev A.E., Krasnukhin L.I. March 18, 1987.

View of the Key Bastion from the Key Section

R2–R3 Section

Climbing Report

on the summit of Bronenosets (2411 m) via the right buttress of the Southwest wall (first ascent) Eastern Sayan range, August 2009

Irkutsk — 2009. Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayans, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Summit — Bronenosets 2411 m Route — right buttress of the Southwest wall, proposed category 2B, first ascent Route type — rock climbing. Route characteristics — height difference 420 m, route length about 720 m, average slope 45°. Hooks left on the route — 0.

Ascent Log

Ascent Category: Technical Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Ridge Route: North edge of the North tower of Trekhglaaya peak 2511 m ASL Ascent Description: elevation gain: 670 m, average steepness: 50°, difficult section: 220 m. Pitons driven: rock: 17 pcs, ice: none, bolt: none Number of travel hours: 14 h. No overnight stays on the route. Team: Sports club "Bratsk" Leader: Trubnikov V. I., Master of Sports of the USSR Participants: Moskalev G. A., Candidate for Master of Sports, Kriulin V. K., 1st sports category, Koltygin S. F., 2nd sports category Team Coach: Trubnikov V. I. Ascent Date: May 12, 1976

	Route traversed by the group
===	Route 4A cat. diff. (traverse)
===	Route 2B cat. diff. via E. edge
	control cairn
Map of the ascent area. Table of route section characteristics.

Report