REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner.

R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard! R4–R5: 1 rope length sharply to the right and up, crossing several rock ridges, exit to a buttress. R5–R6: 5 rope lengths along the buttress under the wall. Simple and moderately difficult climbing. Rockfall hazard! R6–R7: 1 rope length up the stepped rocks, left of the black water-saturated rocks, exit under an overhanging "visor" with a hammered piton. R7–R8: 10 m traverse left and 30 m up along smooth rocks into an indistinct internal corner. Complex climbing. И.Т.О. R8–R9: along the internal corner, then via a crack, exit under a large overhanging rock, bypassing it on the right, we reach the start of an "oblique" ledge. 1 rope length. Complex climbing. Two И.Т.О. R9–R10: left along an inclined scree ledge 2.5 rope lengths to a 10-meter wall. Simultaneous movement, protection on protrusions.

• R10–R11: passing the 10-meter wall and a cork in the spall, exit to a platform under the start of a "chimney". Overnight stay. R11–R12: 30-meter chimney. Complex climbing. И.Т.О. R12–R13: left-down descent along a slab 10 m under a system of "rock feathers". R13–R14: 1 rope length straight up, first feathery, then slab-like rocks. Complex climbing. At the end of the rope, protection and re-rigging while suspended. R14–R15: 5 m to the right, then up a crack under the start of "red rocks". 1 rope length. Complex climbing. R15–R16: 0.5 rope length right-up, then 0.5 up along a destroyed buttress onto a smooth 50° slab under a wide internal corner. R16–R17: 1 rope length up the internal corner, 15 m traverse right along an indistinct ledge, and 20 m up the wall under a second indistinct internal corner. Complex climbing. И.Т.О. R17–R18: 20 m up it, then right-up onto rocks with a steepness of 65–70° — the "Dvuzubka" roof.

Table of main characteristics of the route to the summit of Amanauz — Dvuzubka via the Eastern wall, category 5B.

R18–R19: 10 m to the right, 0.5 rope length up, 0.5 rope length traverse right into a wide rock couloir. Destroyed rocks. Moderately difficult climbing. Rockfall hazard! R19–R20: 2 rope lengths up the couloir, exit to the "Dvuzubka" ridge. Simple climbing. Overnight stay. R20–R21: 3.5 rope lengths along the right side of the "Dvuzubka" ridge to a saddle with the summit of Glavny Amanauz. Moderate climbing. R21–R22: From the saddle, 5 rope lengths along the ridge to the summit of Gl. Amanauz. Simple climbing. Descent from the summit along the ridge to the Amanauzsky pass, category 3.

The group left the last "Conical moraine" bivouac at 4:00.

Crossing the glacier took 2 hours 30 minutes.

At 7:00, they started moving along the rocks.

Preliminary processing was not carried out.

As artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), the group used several pitons hammered by previous groups.