Ascent Record,
done in the Ukrainian Council Championship of the “Avangard” Sports Society in mountaineering 1974.
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Ascent category — technically challenging ascents.
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Ascent region — Western Caucasus.
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Ascent route — Mt. Amanauz (Main peak) 3757 m via S.-W. buttress of the southern wall.
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Ascent details:
total altitude gain — 700 m; altitude gain on very difficult sections — 520 m; average slope of the route — 65°; slope of very difficult sections — 85°; total length — 850 m.
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Pitons hammered in: rock — 80; ice — 3.
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Duration: 28 h (without approaches and descent).
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Number and details of bivouacs — two overnight bivouacs.
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Team name — team of Kharkov Regional Council of “Avangard” Sports Society.
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Names of the team captain, participants, and coach with their sports qualification:
Bakhtigozin Vitaly Anatolyevich, Master of Sports of the USSR — captain; Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich, Master of Sports of the USSR — participant; Tkachenko Vladimir Semenovich, Master of Sports of the USSR — participant; Chub Grigory Ivanovich, Candidate Master of Sports — participant; Shumikhin Vladimir Sergeyevich, Master of Sports of the USSR — coach.
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Date of ascent — July 23, 1974.
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Team's final ranking.
Brief geographical description of the ascent region
The Amanauz massif is located in the Main Caucasian Range. It stretches from northwest to southeast between the peaks Sofruju and the Jugu-turly-chat massif. The Main peak of Amanauz is separated from the peak Sofruju by the Amanauz pass. The Popov saddle separates the Junction peak of Amanauz from the Jugu-turly-chat peaks.
Most routes to the peaks of the Amanauz massif start from the Amanauz and West Amanauz glaciers:
- to the Main peak from the Amanauz pass — a combined route, category 3B.
- to the Main peak via the northern wall — a rock route, category 4B.
- to the Main peak via the northern buttress — a rock route, category 4B.
- to the Twin-toothed peak via the eastern wall — a rock route, category 5B.
- to the Junction peak from the east — a combined route, category 4A.
From the south, the wall of the Amanauz massif has several buttresses leading to the Main peak and to the gendarmes on the ridge. The buttresses are quite steep (up to 80°) and typically represent a chain of rock ascents.
From the south, only one route to the Main peak of Amanauz existed until now, an older route via the southeastern buttress, category 5B. This route was first climbed by a sports group led by B. Romanov.
Our sports group set a goal back in 1972 to climb the left, southwestern buttress, which descends almost vertically from the Main peak to the southwestern Amanauz glacier. However, in 1972, we only managed a reconnaissance. The reconnaissance trip was done between July 18 and 20, 1972, by a group of instructors from “Alpek” tourist camp, consisting of: Tkachenko V. O., Shumikhin V. S., Vsevolodsky A. I., Bakhtigozin V. A.
The path to the start of the route from Dombay поляна leads through the Amanauz valley along a trail, across the Amanauz glacier, then through the Amanauz pass to the southwestern Amanauz glacier.
Radio communication on the route with the camp is possible only through repeaters, which should be placed on the Amanauz pass or on the shoulder of peak Sorruju.
Route profile
Route description
R0–R1. From the bivouac on the moraine on the S.-W. Amanauz glacier, a traverse under the southern slopes of Main Amanauz towards the left buttress leading to Main Amanauz — 0.5 h.
R1–R2. The start of the route — brown rocks of medium difficulty (with piton protection) on the right side of a wide couloir between the ridges leading to the Black gendarme and to the Main peak.
At first 30 m along rocks with a slope of 60–70°, then the slope eases to 40–45°, rocks are of “sheep’s forehead” type. Move up and right towards the first gendarme. The landmark is a snowpatch under the gendarme. To the snowpatch ~200 m. Rockfall hazard. In the lower part of the snowpatch and to the right of it, there are scree shelves suitable for a bivouac.
R2–R3. The further path leads to a gap in the ridge behind the first gendarme — a total of 120 m.
Along an inside corner 20 m, slope 70° with a subsequent move left into the next inside corner and another 60 m to overhanging rocks. Bypass left onto a wall with a slope of 80° and along it 40–50 m to the ridge (70°). Rocks are monolithic, but there are loose stones. Piton protection. On the ridge, in the gap near the gendarme, there is a cairn and a bivouac site.
R3–R4. From the bivouac, about 10 m ascent along flakes onto a ledge, and from there a traverse along a narrow ledge 4 m to another horizontal platform 2×3 m. From the platform, move vertically up 10–12 m along a chimney, with good hand and footholds on the sides. Piton protection. Then the wall eases to 70° at the end of a 50-meter rope inside the chimney — a platform.
Further movement — along the wall to the right of the ridge, at first along a degenerating chimney, then along narrow ledges with an exit onto the shoulder of a steep ascent. From the cairn — 150 m.
R4–R5. The 2nd ascent is done along the ridge with piton protection (50 m, 80°). Behind the ascent — one rope length of a gentle ridge (simultaneous movement) leads to the wall of the pre-summit ascent.
R5–R6. The pre-summit ascent is initially bypassed on the right along an inclined smooth slab under the wall (about 10 m) with piton protection, then the wall turns into steep, broken rocks. The path goes straight up to the ridge (10–12 m). Piton protection. The ledges are inclined outwards, so they are mostly suitable for feet. On the ridge, there is a convenient platform for pulling up backpacks.
From the platform, exit onto the shoulder of the ascent along a 15-meter vertical broken wall. On the shoulder — a bivouac site.
R6–R7. The tower of the Main peak of Amanauz is climbed by simultaneous movement of the rope teams. Rocks are of medium difficulty, protection is on the natural features, slope 50°, length of the section 100 m.
The section R6–R7 coincides with a section of the classified route, category 5B.
From the peak, the path follows the route, category 3B, to the Amanauz pass, then along the Amanauz glacier, moraine, and trail to Dombay поляна.
Ascent route: Mt. Amanauz (Main peak, 3757 m) via the South-Western buttress of the southern wall.
