REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement.

Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement.

Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category
• along the spur of the North wall 4B category
• along the South wall 5B category

There is also a sports route 5B category, leading along the East wall to v. Dvuzubka (Amanauz shoulder). We have passed all existing routes along the ridges and walls of Amanauz, so we decided to choose a very logical, obvious route along the short and steep, not clearly expressed spur of the North walls of Amanauz, which in the upper part turns into a ridge formed by two large firn fields, joining on the spur ridge.

In this firn ridge, the spur flattens to 40–50° and leads to the summit ridge of Gl. Amanauz, slightly west of the main summit.

To scout the route, we climbed the classified route to v. Gl. Amanauz along the spur of the North wall 4B category in June 1972, which took (from the foot to the summit) — 8 working hours.

After passing our route (through the firn ridge) it turned out that it had been climbed before: we found 4 rock hooks hammered on a difficult spot, on an approximately ten-meter section, apparently during the ascent; the hooks are very old. So, in fact, we are not the first ascenders of this route. However, we do not have any information about when and by whom this route was climbed. No other traces of ascenders (notes, etc.) were found by us.

III. Ascent Description

July 15, 1972 — day of approach and organization of a bivouac on the slope, opposite the route. 6 working hours. Weather satisfactory.

July 16, 1972 — day of ascent. Passage of the spur and firn ridge and organization of a bivouac on the summit ridge of Gl. Amanauz. 12 working hours. Weather good.

July 17, 1972 — day of descent. Ascent to the summit of Gl. Amanauz and descent along the route 3B category to Amanauz pass and further to Dombay settlement. 8 working hours. Weather satisfactory.

Tactical elements of the route passage by a duo:

• movement always on a double rope;
• maximum possible equipment lightening: "Zdarka" tent, down jackets instead of sleeping bags, compact stove and other lightweight equipment.

Safety was ensured by regular radio communication (duplicate-rockets) with the interaction group.

IV. Route Description

The path to the conical moraine of Amanauz glacier is described in detail in F. Kropf's book "Western Caucasus".

From the conical moraine:

• along the right (orographic) side of the glacier
• to the flat plateau of the glacier, which must be crossed to the right, in the direction of the green ridge, separating the Zap. Amanauz and Vost. Amanauz glaciers
• further exit to the slopes of the green ridge, ascent along them upwards, along the glacier.

On a large scree, opposite the route — bivouac (from the conical moraine: 1.5–2 hours).

From the bivouac:

• first — straight up, to the upper semi-cirque of the East Amanauz glacier
• then, crossing the glacier — to the base of the spur (1–1.5 hours)
• through the randkluft — exit to the rocks.

To the left of the spur ridge:

• 1 rope of smoothed grassy slabs (hook protection)
• after that — simultaneously, along simple rocks, in places along the snow, to the left of the destroyed spur ridge — straight up, to the steep smoothed part of the spur and exit to the ridge
• 1 rope along the ridge with hook protection — to the shelf under the cleft in the steep monolithic slab.

Here the ridge ends, the spur turns into a wall. From here — a difficult place, there are two route options:

1. Option I: bypassing the cleft to the right, along the ridge along the steep inner corner — 20–25 m up (hooks), then 5–6 m to the left, through the ridge bend — to the shelf under the steep inner corner. Old hooks are hammered here.
2. Option II: straight up the cleft in the steep monolithic slab (climbing is very difficult) — to the same place. For protection in the 2nd option, shovel hooks are necessary, as there are no cracks for hooks.

It is better to pull the backpacks up according to the second option.

Further:

• 10–12 m up along the steep inner corner (hooks)
• very difficult exit from it to the left — up (rocks slightly overhang) — to a large shelf with scree
• from the shelf 40–50 m to the left — up along a wide destroyed rock couloir, you need to get into a notch visible from below
• then 10–15 m along the steep wall (quite destroyed, hook protection)
• 20–25 m along the loose inner corner between the ridge on the right and the chute on the left (stones can fly from the chute onto the destroyed wall!)
• the next rope — monolithic inner corner with grass (hook protection) and exit to stepped shelves under the next wide inner corner (one rope, rocks firm)
• along which — to the outer corner (half a rope of medium difficulty rocks), then — to the spur ridge. The ridge is destroyed, rocks of medium difficulty (short, difficult walls on the ridge are passed head-on). After 2–3 ropes after exiting the spur ridge — excellent bivouac sites, there is water. From the beginning of the spur 7–8 hours.

Further — along the simple and very destroyed spur ridge to the firn ridge. To the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.

Firn ridge length 230–250 m, steepness from 40° to 50°, quite sharp. It is climbed along the ridge or nearby (depending on the state of the firn), on average 2–3 hours to the exit to the summit ridge of Gl. Amanauz, to the route 3B category.

Not far on the summit ridge there is a good place for a bivouac: platforms, water.

Further (without backpacks) to the left (along the way) along the route 3B category to v. Gl. Amanauz (about 1 hour to the summit), then return back and descend down along the route 3B category, to Amanauz pass, then to Dombayskaya poljana.

IV. Route Characteristics (by sections)

Section #1 (lower, gentle part of the spur) — rocky, simple. Length 400–450 m, average steepness 40–50°. Rocks are unstable, in the lower part grassy, many shelves, there are sections of snow. Difficult transition through the randkluft (from the glacier) to the spur. Movement, except for one, the first rope, — simultaneous. 3 rock hooks hammered. Almost everywhere there are places for a bivouac.

Section #2 (middle, steep part of the spur) — rocky, difficult, in places complex. Length: 250–300 m, average steepness 70°. Rocks are diverse, from the strongest monoliths to the most destroyed. Micro-relief is clearly expressed:

• shelves;
• clefts;
• corners;
• slabs.

There are very few cracks for hooks in monoliths, and many in destroyed rocks, but they are unreliable. There are enough convenient places for protection. Movement — only alternate. Protection — almost entirely hook. 20–22 rock hooks hammered. There are no good places for a bivouac.

Section #3 (upper part of the spur with firn ridge) — combined, technically simple, but laborious, strongly depends on the state of the firn ridge. Length: 300–350 m, average steepness 40–50°. At the beginning of the section — simple rocks, in places very destroyed. Firn ridge length 230–250 m, steepness 40–50°, quite sharp. Not reaching the firn — excellent bivouac sites, control cairn. No rock hooks were hammered on the section, 5 ice hooks were hammered (at the beginning of the firn ridge). Further, protection through an ice axe was possible. Movement: on rocks — simultaneous, on ice — alternate. At the exit of the firn ridge to the ridge — there is an excellent bivouac site, from which 1 hour path to v. Gl. Amanauz along the route 3B category.

In general, the route passed is very logical, safe from rockfall from the side and is especially valuable because it is one of the few rather complex combined routes of the Western Caucasus — a region known mainly only for rock routes. Participants assess the difficulty of the route as 5A category.

NOTE: the length and steepness of the sections are approximate; the excess of the top of the route over the bottom is approximately 800–900 m. We walked on a double 60-meter rope, so the rope sections will be approximately 30 m long.

VI. Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group 4–6 people.
2. Best time for ascent — July.
3. Initial bivouac — scree under the green ridge, or on the route, in the lower, gentle part of the spur.
4. Time of exit from the bivouac — 4–5 am.
5. Special equipment (for a group of 4 people): main rope 2 × 40 m; rock hooks 15–20 pcs; carabiners 10–15 pcs; hammers 2 pcs; ladders 2 pcs.

In case of icy conditions of the firn ridge:

• crampons for all participants;
• 6–8 ice hooks.

VII. Appendices to the Report

1. Map of the Amanauz area.
2. Photograph of the route.

The path of approach is marked with dashes, the route is marked with dotted line, group bivouacs are marked with triangles, and control cairns are marked with stakes.

Group participants: (Gubanov Yu.D.) (Khamsov A.P.)