I. Climbing category

• Rock

2. Climbing region

• Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, route

• Belalakaya (Smaller) from Belalakaysky pass

4. Proposed category difficulty

• 3B

5. Route characteristics:

• Combined

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.

Group composition:

1. Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
2. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich DOMBAY 1982

1. Class — technical.
2. North Caucasus, Aксаут gorge.
3. Peak Yuzhnye Bratcy via left eastern counterfort.
4. Proposed — Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 880 m. The average steepness of the route is 45°; maximum steepness in areas — up to 70°.
6. Pitons were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — II.
8. Overnight stays on the route — none.
9. Leader: Timonin Sergey Nikolayevich, 2nd sports category.

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier

Ascent Record

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Dombay Region, North-West Caucasus. 3. German Comsomol Peak, ~3600 m, from Belalakaysky Glacier. 4. Category of difficulty — 2A. 5. The route is combined, with a height difference from the glacier of ~1000 m. 6. Belay — without pitons. 7. Number of climbing hours from the moraine bivouac: ascent 5–6 hours, descent — 3 hours. 8. Training group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Kruchikov Yu. — III, Koblyakov V. — III, Rakhmatov R. — III, Galimyanov N. — III

Ascent Passport

Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72°
• entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Description

Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route.

Route Conclusion

The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Ascent Passport

• Snow-ice

2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Naruk station
3. Peak, ascent route — Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya from Dkh pass
4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m
6. Number of overnight stays — none
7. Number of walking hours — 6