Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Peak, route: Oshen Mt. (2804 m) via the right part of the NW bastion
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 300 m Route length: 440 m Average wall slope: 50°
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. CLIMBING CLASS – rock climbing
2. CLIMBING REGION – Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy Ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofiya and Psysh rivers
3. SUMMIT – peak "Panagyurishte" (proposed by the first ascenders) 3073 m via the 3rd buttress
4. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS – rock climbing on the buttress, height difference – 240 m, average steepness – 45°
5. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY GRADE – 2B
6. PITS DRIVEN – 10 rock anchors for belaying and self-belaying
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME – from the start of the route to the summit 3.5 hours
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHTS – not required on the route

• CLIMB LEADER: Oleinikov N.P. – Candidate Master of Sports

The summit of PESHTERA is 3070 m and is located in the North-Eastern spur, running from the junction near the summit of Velbashi (3243 m). It rises like a rocky pyramid above the valley of the left tributary of the Sofia River, which flows into the latter near the "Syrzavod" glade. To the northwest of PESHTERA, separated by a col with an absolute height of 2800 m, are the rocky bastions of the summit named "60th anniversary of KChAO" (2970 m). Both summits are visible from the "Syrzavod" glade, where the base camp was located during the winter alpinism event (see orographic scheme, photo ©). The 3070 m summit, as an object of first ascent, was proposed by the coaching council of the federation to a group of athletes under the leadership of R.A. Gorda. The only acceptable approach from the point of view of avalanche safety was the eastern spur of the NE ridge, descending from the Eastern pre-summit of the "60-let KChAO" peak (consultations with candidate of geographical sciences, avalanche specialist VGI in Nalchik, Mr. Runich A.V.). From the "Syrzavod" glade with an absolute height of 1930 m, descent to the Sofia River and in the area of the mouth of its left tributary - crossing the river in the direction of the Eastern spur, leading to the NE ridge of the "60 let KChAO" summit. Along the spur, overgrown with forest in the lower part, straight up, leaving avalanche-prone slopes on the right and left. Having gone beyond the forest boundary, continue to move along the watershed line to a group of separate trees and further - to the last spruce, from which the rocks of the spur begin. The mentioned spruce is visible from the "Syrzavod" glade. Further along the wide rocky spur - exit to the junction point of the NE ridge, having a mark of 2590 m (660 m height difference). Here is the starting point of the route (2-3 hours of ascent along a pre-organized snow trail).

Route Description

Report

on the ascent to the summit 2839.8 m Pseashkha West via the south-west ridge presumably 1B cat. diff. First ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Area: Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Pslukh valley, section 2.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 2839.8 m Pseashkha West, via the south-west ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 700 m.

The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

I. Climbing category — rock

2. Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers.
3. Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499
5. Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection.
7. Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people).
8. Number of nights — not required on the route.
9. Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

Fig. 35. North-west buttress, ridge and summit point of the peak Pyatigorsk with the ascent route (13). Photo by A. Runich. Fig. 37. The summit 1300 years of Bulgaria with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 38. The summit Ak-Airy with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 39. Sketch of the traverse of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Part of the traverse from the beginning of the route to the saddle between the summits Pyatigorsk and 1300 years of Bulgaria (East Ak-Airy pass). Scale 1:5000. In the inset photos: a — view of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Photo by B. Fedorov; b — on the dome of the Ak-Airy summit. Photo by A. Makushenko.