□

Description

First ascents on v. Nadezhda via the eastern ridge, approximately category 1B difficulty. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the r. Sofiya (orographically) to its confluence with the r. Ak-Airy. Then, up and to the left, along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Ak-Airy to the first belt of "baраньи лбы" ("sheep's foreheads") — 1 hour of walking. The belt of "baраньи лбы" is bypassed from the right, following a small stream. Then, to the left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. The route proceeds up a medium scree slope to a shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy river valley. Here, a green, flat clearing with a nearby stream of clear water makes for a suitable starting bivouac site. From the first belt of "baраньи лбы" — 1 hour. From the starting bivouac, proceed up the valley. The valley levels out after a slight ascent. Ahead, a tongue of a small glacier coming from beneath the Ak-Airy pass comes into view. Cross it in the direction of the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda. The glacier is gentle, crevasse-free, and open. Traverse the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda with a gradual ascent towards the first major "gendarme" on the eastern ridge. Rope up before reaching the first gendarme! In rope teams, navigate the scree slopes and inclined ledges, bypassing all gendarmes on the left, and ascend in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left up to a couloir (live rocks!!!) that passes between the gendarme and the summit. Up the couloir, straight up for about 60 m, to reach the summit of Nadezhda. From the start of the route to the summit — 1 hour of walking. Descent follows the ascent route.

Fig. 1. Map of the Orlenok massif area. Peaks: Western (3180 m), Main (3190 m), Eastern (3140 m). On the map - З, Гл, В.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz, Psyish River valley
3. Peak, route: Orlenok Eastern, 3140 m via Western spur and South-Eastern ridge
4. Expected complexity category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference:
   • 600 m;
   • total route length - 1500 m;

Peaks:

• Orlenok Eastern (3140.0)
• 3010.0
• 3000.0
• 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) Route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks (3140.0 – 3010.0 – 3000.0 – 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast)" Category — 2B (combined). Leader: V. Babkin. Western Caucasus, Orlenok gully, Karadzhash ridge. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks — 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast" 2B category (combined), made on the annual alpinist event "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pa' 2012" (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karadzhash mountain massif. Peaks:

Peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west Cat. diff. — 2A (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok balk, Orlenok mountain spur Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAM­BLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) "Traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west" 2A cat. diff. (combined). At the competitions in mountaineering "Pobeda Cup" NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First Ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gorge: Orlenok balk Ridge: Orlenok mountain spur Peaks:

• Peak 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny)
• Peak 3010 (Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 — 3010 from east to west 2A cat. diff. Difficulty level: 2A cat. diff. (combined) (approximately) Prepared by:

ASCENT REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3031 (ORLYONOK NORTH-WEST) VIA THE “NORTH-WEST RIDGE” ROUTE, CATEGORY III (ROCK) BY THE TEAM FROM “SAUK-PAY” CLUB (SYKTYVKAR) IN MAY 2018

YEAR OF REPORT: 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Supplement to the Route Description

Orlyonok NW 3A

Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque

Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak

Peak 3010 (Orlyonok Centralny) Route: via the south-eastern wall Difficulty category — 3B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlyonok gully, Orlyonok mountain spur Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3010 (Orlyonok Centralny) Via the south-eastern wall, category 3B (rocky). At the climbing competitions “Kubok Pobedy” by NP “Klub severnykh puteshestvii ‘Sauk-Pai’” (class “First ascents”) in

Peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny). Route: traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east. Category of complexity — 2A (rocky) Leader: V. Zakharov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Orlenok mountain spur. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny) "Traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east 2A category of complexity (rocky)". At the competitions in mountaineering "Cup of Victory" NP "Club of northern travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully:

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001 — Western Caucasus, Belaya River gorge, section 2, subsection 2.1. Krasnodar and Stavropol regions up to Marukh pass.
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name — Mt. Oshen (2804 m) via the northeastern counterfort and northern slope.
3. Route character — combined.
4. Assumed 1Bz category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route height difference — 426 m. Route length — 900 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty — 0 m, VI category of difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.