Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, Arkhyz area, section 2.1 ECTM 2013
2. Peak 3201 m (Karadash Yu.), via the eastern wall
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 290 m Route length: 330 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 88 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°
6. Pitons left on the route: 0, including bolted pitons: 0, use of artificial climbing aids (ITOs): 0
7. Team's climbing hours: 9.5 hours
8. Team leader: Shamalov V.P., Master of Sports of Russia

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
2. Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
3. Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
4. Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south

Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E), Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route: "Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)" Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third section promerce — route 3.4 c.c. passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)

ASCENT PASS

I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area, ridge: 2.1. Krasnodar region to Marukh pass. 3. Summit, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach – Uzlovaya, 3024 m. Route along the crest, combined (snow, rocks). 4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 470 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons driven: for belay: for creating artificial support

Description

The route of the first ascent to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the Western ridge by the group of the Krasnodar regional Federation of alpinism DSO "Burevestnik" in May 1972.

Approach to the initial bivouac

From the city of Adler to the Risha lake - by bus. Then to the Avadhara settlement 4-5 hours walk or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay. Departure from the Avadhara settlement at 4-5 am to reach the south-eastern slopes of the Kuta-teku False pass before sunrise. 1.5-2 hours walk. Then ascent along the pronounced rib directly along the route. Snow slopes with a steepness of 25-30°. After ascending to the ridge, turn right to the Kuta-teku pass. Ascent to the pass takes 3-4 hours. Possible bivouac site. Then descend from the pass along a snowy slope with a steepness of 45°. Two ropes. Then the slope is 20-25°. Descend to the forest. At the entrance to it, turn left and traverse the slope. Follow the stream leading to the Kardyvach lake. Convenient and safe bivouac site. From the Kardyvach lake bivouac, head south through the forest, along the left (orographic) bank of the Lagyernaya river, to a wide snowy chute. Up the chute and then left to a vaguely expressed rib leading to the western ridge of the Uzlovaya - Kardyvach peak. Reach the ridge at a point without a cornice. From the base camp 1.5-2 hours. R0-R1.

Description of the ascent route

19 22

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KARDYVACH-UZLOVAYA VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ON OCTOBER 21–22, 1975, BY A GROUP FROM THE KUBAN REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE "BUREVESTNIK" SPORTS SOCIETY

I. GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE AREA

The Kardyвач lake area is located at the junction of:

• The Main Caucasian Range
• The Gagra Range All peaks of sporting interest are part of the Main Caucasian Range. At the junction of the mentioned ranges stands the peak Kardyвач-Uzlovaya, elevation 3020 m. To its south lies the peak Kardyвач-Glavnaya, and to the north, there are five peaks of the Tsyndyshхо massif, Smidovich peak, and the peak Layub, situated in a spur of the Main Caucasian Range extending south towards the Gagra Range. The elevation of the peaks in the area exceeds 3000 m above sea level, with the highest peak being Smidovich peak at 3359 m.

108427.2

FIRST ASCENT ROUTE DIAGRAM (according to UNAF) to the summit of Kelbashi via the North ridge ~16 km

I+ The summit of Kelbashi (3243 m, photo I) is situated in the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Stolichny and Karadjasch passes. It is present on all topographic maps. The name is local. The first ascent was made by a group led by S.A. Chuеnko in January 1982 as part of the traverse "60 let KChAO–Peshtera–Septemvri–Kelbashi". This route is categorized as 3A. From the Karadjasch pass to the summit of Batak via the south ridge, there is a categorized route 2A. The present first ascent was made within the framework of the Stavropol krai sports committee alpinada "Arkhyz-88" by members of the rescue team of this event. The north-eastern slopes and part of the north ridge up to the junction with the spur running down to the summit of Septemvri (see the orographic diagram) are covered with ice. Only the summit area is free of it. From the "Syrzavod" base camp, the path initially follows the Kashka-Ecshek stream, then in the direction of the saddle between the summits of 60 let KChAO and Peshtera. Approximate time — 3 hours.

Report on the First Ascent of the Traverse v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge

Approximate difficulty: 3B category. Completed by the "Ushba" Climbing Club team on August 8, 2010, under the leadership of Dmitry Anatolyevich Lyublinsky. Address: Russia, Saratov, Khimicheskaya St., 7, apt. 154, phone: (8452) 911 633, +7 927 109 21 10

Climbing Report

1. Type of ascent: Combined
2. Region: Caucasus: Sofiya Valley
3. Peak, route: v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge
4. Anticipated difficulty: 3B, category: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — approximately 270 m, route length — approximately 1615 m,

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)