Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT TYPE: rock climbing
2. ASCENT AREA: Karachay-Cherkessia, Arkhyz, upper reaches of the Aman-Auz River
3. PEAK, ROUTE: Dorbun Glavny. 3140 m. Via the South Ridge from Duritsky Pass.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 2B, first ascent
5. ELEVATION GAIN: 320 m
   • total route length — 450 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. NUMBER OF PITOONS: ≈ 10–12 chocks
7. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: 3 (from the pass to the summit)

Peaks:

• 3090 m (Dorbun-Ka­ya Northern)
• 3117 m (Dorbun-Ka­ya Main) Route: traverse of the Dorbun-Ka­ya mountain massif from north to south Difficulty category — 3A Combined difficulty category Leader: A. Lyapun Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, Arkassara ridge, Amanaus river mountain valley Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 3213.7 (Bolshaya Dukka-Bashi) via the "North-Eastern Ridge" Route, Category 3B (Rocky), by the "Sauk-Pai" Club Team (Syktyvkar) in May 2018

2018

I. Ascent Report

#	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Kuznetsov Viktor Aleksandrovich, 2nd sports rank, Nevinnomyssk, Stavropol Krai.
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	1. Nikolaeva Svetlana Olegovna: 1st sports rank, Voronezh; 2. Mikhailova Lyubov Sergeevna: 2nd sports rank, Samara; 3. Karavaev Maxim Georgievich: 2nd sports rank, Rossosh, Voronezh Region.
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Zhuravlev Sergei Vasilievich: Candidate Master of Sports, Category 1 Instructor-Methodologist, Syktyvkar.
1.4	Organization	NP "Northern Travels Club 'Sauk-Pai'" (Syktyvkar).
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

CLIMBING CLASS	— rock
CLIMBING AREA	— Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Pshysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK, ROUTE	3011 Gonorama ODINOVA (first ascenders' proposal) via the North-Eastern ridge
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY	— 3A (winter)
ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC	— rock, ridge, absolute height difference 600 m

Peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern). Route: via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge. Cat. difficulty: 1B* (combined). Leader: A. Yarunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Dzhash mountain range. Section in CMGA - 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern) "Via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge 1B* (combined)". At the year-round alpine event:

• Climbing competition
• NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pay'"
• 2013 — "Victory Cup"
• Class "First ascents"

ASCENT DOCUMENT

283 PV February 22, 1983 55 2149

ASCENT CLASS	Rock
ASCENT AREA	Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between Psysh and Sofiya river valleys.
PEAK, ROUTE	XIX Congress of VLKSM (first ascenders' proposal) via South-Eastern couloir and North-Eastern ridge.
PROPOSED GRADE	2B
ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS	Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference — 450 m.
PITONS DRIVEN	5 (during ascent)

Kara-Djash Peak (3171) Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge Category of difficulty: 3A cat. sl. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Djash ridge Section in CMGV - 2.1. E-mail - ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the top of Kara-Djash (3171) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge 3A cat. sl. (Combined)". At the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2011 (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Western Caucasus. Arkhyz. Orlenok hollow. Summit — Kara-Jash (3171 m). Route: "Via the southwestern wall" 3B (combined)

Summit Description

Kara-Jash summit (3171 m) — a nodal summit of the mountain massif (on old maps — ridge) Kara-Jash. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok hollow), between the rivers Pshish, Sofia, and Orlenok. Kara-Dash summit (3171 m) — a pronounced mountain of the Karajash ridge, easily identifiable from the Taulu clearing, located at the confluence of the Sofia river into Pshish river. The official name of the summit, marked on the geographical maps of the Russian Federation (Scale: 1

Kara-Djash peak (3171 m). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Category of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Leader: K. Shustov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Djash mountain range. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route to the Kara-Djash peak (3171 m) "via the north-eastern ridge (combined)". At the year-round alpine event, competition in mountaineering NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2013 — "Cup of Victory" (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain range: Western Caucasus. Gully: Orlenok. Mountain range: Kara-Djash. Peak: Kara-Djash (3171). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Level of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Prepared by: K. Shustov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Description of the peak

Kara-Djash peak (3171) is a nodal peak of the Kara-Djash mountain range. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok gully), between the rivers:

• Psyish
• Sofia

Karajash Peak (3171) Route: via the northern ridge Complexity category: 4A cat. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok ravine, mountain range (ridge) Karajash Section in KMGV – 2.1. E-mail – ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the Karajash peak (3171) "Via the northern ridge 4A cat. (combined)".