Northwestern Caucasus
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of the eastern edge of the summit Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m, difficulty category 2B.
Report
On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.
Semenov M. A. — MS team leader
Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category
Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie"
2023
2. Caucasus
2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
Participants of the ascent
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent to the Adzhara peak (2960 m) along the south-eastern ridge from the Adzhara pass, category of difficulty 2A, 9 hours of walking time.
Ascent Record
- Ascent category: technically challenging
- Ascent area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara area
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Adzhara peak, 2960 m, route via the south-eastern ridge from Adzhara pass
- Estimated difficulty category: 2A
- Route characteristics: rocky ridge, height difference from the pass to the summit 350 m, average slope 30°
- Pitons driven: for belay : for creating artificial footholds | | | | :---------- | :---- | | Rock | 1 |
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the ascent to the summit of Akaira 3262 m via the northwestern ridge, first ascent, category 2A difficulty, description of the route and its passage.
Rostov Region Mountaineering and Climbing Federation
Report
on the ascent to the summit Akairy 3262 m via the northwestern ridge presumably 2A cat. complexity. First ascent 2014
ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
- Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain peak route classifier.
- Peak: Akairy (3262 m), via the northwestern ridge.
- Proposed category: 2A cat. complexity, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
Route Description: Ю склону
Climbing route description for Peak Akademika Kolesnika (3540 m) in Arkhyz via the southern slope, complexity category 2A, rock climbing category.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category: rock climbing.
- Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, and climbing route: Academician Kolesnik peak, 354 via the South wall
- Estimated category of difficulty: 2A.
- Route description: Height difference — 400 m. Average steepness — 40°. Route length
Route Description: правому кф. В стены
Description of the ascent route to Yanadamin peak via the eastern ridge spur, difficulty category 3B, elevation gain 530 m.
- Peak height and ascent route: Yanadamina peak, 28 supposed FORESTER's route along the counterfort of the eastern ridge №3540.
- Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 530 m, average steepness — 75°, route length | K.T.R. | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | | ------ | --- | --- | --- | -- | -- | --- | | m | 140 | 405 | 155 | 40 | 20 | none |
- Fastening hooks: for belaying, for creating i.t.o. (intermediate technical obstacles)
Route Description: правому кф. В стены
### First Ascent of Akademik Kalesnik Peak via the Eastern Wall Counterfort, Category 3B Difficulty Detailed description of the route and necessary equipment for the ascent.
DESCRIPTION
First ascent to the peak of Akademik Kalesnik via the buttress of the eastern wall, approximately category 3B difficulty. From the base camp, located on the upper forest boundary, on the right (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River, ascend the gorge through thickets of birch, willow, raspberry, and rhododendrons. After the vegetation ends, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River. Then, with a gradual gain in altitude, move towards the sharp black moraine. Before reaching it, turn sharply to the right and move towards the gap in the "ram's foreheads". Ascend a wide couloir with scree and a stream to the tongue of the glacier. The glacier tongue is at an altitude of 2700–2750 m. Then, exit to the right, beyond the rocky ridge, gaining altitude, and reach a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–45°. Move straight up this snowy slope for 400 m, then exit to the left through the rocky ridge onto the glacier. Then, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope of the glacier for 600 m on crampons. The slope's steepness is 50–55°. Move in rope teams, using the entire rope! The slope leads to the upper plateau of the glacier. The altitude of the upper plateau is 3000 m. Then, traverse 500 m across the glacier towards the wall of peak Akademik Kalesnik. The slope's steepness increases after the first 500 m and reaches 15–20° for the next 500 m. The last 100 m have a sharply increasing steepness, reaching 50–55°. In front of the wall, there is a very wide randkluft, which is a serious obstacle on the way to the wall. It is necessary to descend into the randkluft and then start working on the wall at a depth of 8–10 m from the upper edge of the randkluft.
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер. Караджаш
Description of the first ascent to the unnamed peak 3130 m in the Sofiyskiy area of Arkhyz along the southern ridge from Karadjasch pass, difficulty category 2A.
February 22, 1982
ASCENT DOCUMENT
| ASCENT CLASS | — Rock climbing |
|---|---|
| ASCENT AREA | — Western Caucasus, Northwestern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the north from the Karadjasch pass, 3130 m |
| PEAK, ROUTE | — "BATAK" (proposed by the first ascenders) via the southern ridge from the Karadjasch pass |
| EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | — 2A |
| ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS | — Ridge route, absolute elevation gain 330 m |
| NUMBER OF PITS SET | — 2 (on the ascent) |
| DURATION OF THE ASCENT | — 3.5 hours |
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the first ascent of Velingrad Peak (3140 m) via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 1B in Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent type: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh Pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD PEAK, 3160 m, via the north-eastern ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category: 1B.
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 410 m, average steepness: 30° Route length:
Route Description: центр. СЗ кф.
### First Ascent of Belingrad Peak (3110 m) via the Central Northwest Counterfort A detailed description of the first ascent route with a difficulty category of 3B, including an analysis of key sections and the necessary equipment.
1012
ASCENT REPORT
- Climbing type: rock climbing.
- Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
- Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,
Route Description: правому СЗ кф.
Ascent to the Valentral peak via the right northwestern buttress, category of difficulty 3B, route length 550 m, 6.5 hours of walking time.
Ascent
- CLASS OF ASCENT: rock
- ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from the Kardyvach mountain area to Marukh pass.
- PEAK NAME AND ASCENT ROUTE: peak Velintral, ZIU M., via the right northwest counterfort.
- ASSUMED CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY: 3B — 3B, 35 m.
- 320 m average steepness
- 550 route length: cat. diff. I 23456 m. no 203208040 no