Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: CAUCASUS, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: AKSAUT NORTH-EAST (3760 m) via the South-East wall. 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 950 m, average steepness 65°, total length of sections: 1300 m.

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF AKSAUT NORTH VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY MULTIPROFILE ALPINISM CLUB "FRILINE" 12.06.2018

Ascent Passport

Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

Ascent to the summit Maly Akshuat from the east - 2B cat. sl. From the bivouac on the false pass to the left along the shelves exit to the Khamurza pass. From the pass 15–20 m straight up along the ridge. Further to the left-up along the crack 6–8 m to the inclined shelf (hook!) and then ascent to the left of the ridge along the shelves, crossing a number of loose couloirs, to the last gendarme in front of the summit. The entire path:

• is prone to rockfall
• requires careful insurance
• use hooks and ledges Bypass the gendarme to the right along the shelves, exit again to the left onto the ridge and along it to the

Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object

The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes:

• a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962;
• a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty. No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found. Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent.

Composition of the Sports Group

The group consisted of:

• Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category
• Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR

Central Council of DSO "Spartak"

Alpinist National Team

Report

On the Ascent to Main Aксаут via the North Face July 17–22, 1961

1. Aксаут Massif and its North Face.

(Geographical location and history of exploration) The Aксаут massif is located west of the popular Dombay region and, together with the Кара-Каи massif and the spurs of Джаловчат, closes the picturesque Aксаут valley. The Aксаут node consists of 9 peaks, among which the most significant alpinist interest is drawn to:

• Узловая (3860 m)
• Средняя (3870 m)

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

• 300–350 m left-up,
• then 180–200 m right — up,
• exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
• traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
• crossing the bergschrund (protection!),

Fig. 4

4. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana. From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

Ascent Passport. I. Rock climbing category. 2. Dombay region, North-West Caucasus. 3. Ascent to Avstriyskiy Komsomola peak (3654 m) via left NE edge — first ascent. 4. Difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference 1050 m, length 1350 m, length of sections with IV difficulty category — 950 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Diverse insurance: 30 rock pitons were hammered for insurance, rope loops were used 25 times. 7. Departure and return dates to the camp: 5–7 August 1976. 8. Number of travel hours from the start of the route to the summit — 12 hours and descent to Belalakaya glacier another 5.5 hours. The ascent was made on August 6, 1976 (The group had a reserve of warm clothing, a primus stove, etc.). 9. Sports group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Stepanov E.L. — with observers on the glacier — 3rd category climbers.