Northwestern Caucasus

### Ascent route to Peak KAP via North-Eastern ridge, category IIb difficulty, 700 m elevation gain, 6 hours of climbing.

DESCRIPTION of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass Summit

### First Ascent First ascent of the south-eastern wall of Zapadnaya Dvoynyashka in 1953 by a group from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" led by N.G. Vodarchik, rated at 5B difficulty level.

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Western Dvoynyashka peak via the south-eastern wall, category 5B, first ascent Team from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" Coach: MS ROZHKOV V.V. VLODARCHIK N.G. - team leader Team members: ROZHKOV V.V. VORONKOV D.A. PRUSAKOV S.M.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeast wall of the eastern spur, cat. 5B, combined route, July 29-31, 2024.

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024 Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024. Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :----------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full Name of coach, sports rank | O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS | | 1.4 | Organization | St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh" |

Report on the 3rd ascent of the route with 5B category of difficulty via the north wall of Dalar peak in the Western Caucasus in 1984 by a team of climbers led by Selivanov M.A.

Passport Rock climbing category. Western Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge. Peak "Dalar", via the northern wall, Snesarev's route. Third ascent — Category 5B difficulty. Elevation gain — 895 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections: Category 6 difficulty — 570 m. Average steepness of the route is 75°. Pitons driven: rock — 250 bolted — 5 (x)

Report on the first ascent of the route category IV-B to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m via the right buttress of the western wall.

Report On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Pik Maly Ine (Gold) 3060 m via the right buttress of the western wall. Presumably IV-B category of difficulty. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — leader, Popov M. L. — Candidate for Master of Sports Caucasus 2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass Participants of the ascent Leader — Semyonov Mikhail Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya st., 8, apt. 117. Tel.: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: [email protected] Popov Mikhail Lvovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Essentuki.

Report on the ascent of the UTS FASiL team to the summit of Dalar via the Tramontana route, category 5.6, in 2009.

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering 2009 Report UTS FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Dalar peak via Tramontana route (northern buttress of the northern shoulder), first ascent. Table of Contents Contents Route Passport Map of the area with the group's path Brief overview of the area and the ascent object Photograph of the summit with route lines

Description of the passage of a 5E category route on the western wall of the Double West summit in the Western Caucasus in 1983 by a group led by Sergei Bayakin.

Category II Ascent I. Rock Class. Western Caucasus. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. Category of difficulty — 5Е. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.

Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5 difficulty level to the summit of Dvoinyashka Zapadnaya via the northwest wall spur.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION. Report ON THE ASCENT OF V. DVONYASHKA WEST VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE. CATEGORY 5B. SECOND ASCENT RSFSR TEAM 650, 1050 gr., 500, 79°, 58 vsk, 18 sm, 1/2, 2/6, 88 zam. 21 hours, 2 days. Balkin S.G., Baezin V.V., Bogachev A.V., Bogomaz V.V., Zakharov N.N., Chentsov S.V. (Kr-n) February 6-7, 1983.

Description of the first ascent route to the peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (3398 m) in the Western Caucasus, category of difficulty 2A.

I. Climbing category — rock Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers. Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499 Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°. Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection. Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people). Number of nights — not required on the route. Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Region team to the Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder, first ascent of category 5B complexity.

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category Report On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010 Ascent Passport Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder. Proposed first ascent of 5B category. Route type — rock climbing.