Ascent Passport

Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, 2.10.44a.
Erydag, 3825 m, via the left part of the NW wall.
Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first winter ascent.
Route type: rock climbing.
Route height difference: 1125 m. Route length: 1952 m.

Section lengths:

5th category of difficulty — 495 m
6A category of difficulty — 275 m
6B category of difficulty — 212 m

Average steepness:

main part of the route (2800 m — 3891 m) — 74°
entire route (2800 m — 3925 m) — 46°

Pitons left on the route: total — 0; including bolted pitons — 0.

Pitons used on the route:

stationary bolted pitons — 19*; including artificial aids (AAs) — 15
removable bolted pitons — 30; including AAs — 15
chocks — 418, including AAs — 268
rock pitons — 118, including AAs — 107

Total artificial points of support (AAs) used: 405.

Team's working hours (including 6 days of preliminary route processing): 109 hours, 15 days (including 6 days of preliminary route processing).
Team leader: Korobkov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports (MS)

Team members:

Grachev Sergey Anatolyevich, 1st sports category
Kapitonov Ivan Vasilyevich, 1st sports category
Kofanov Sergey Anatolyevich, MS
Ravilov Raif Abdurakhmanovich, Candidate Master of Sports (CMS)
Shabunin Alexander Anatolyevich, CMS

Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich, MS, Honored Coach of Russia (ZTR)
Route start: 15:00, February 10, 2005.

Summit reached: 14:10, February 24, 2005. Return to Base Camp: 21:00, February 24, 2005.

General photo of the summit (February 8, 2005, Kurush village)

1 — Shchedrin's route, 82 2 — Yefimov's route, 82 V 3 — Babitsky's route, 82

Photograph of the wall profile

Route profile

Scale 1:10000

Photopanorama of the area

Brief Overview of the Area

From the Erydag tourist base, cross the Chekhykhay and Sel'dy rivers via two bridges and follow the dirt road along the right bank of the Chekhykhay River, downstream towards the farms, for about 40–50 minutes. Then move towards the NW wall of Erydag in the direction of the Big Well. Establish the ABC (Advanced Base Camp) on the platforms to the right of the scree gully. From the camp (2700 m; 2.5 hours from the tourist base), head upwards to the left through the gully, below the slope with stone "mushrooms," and reach the scree directly under the lower bastion wall. There's a cairn at the top of the scree, marking the start of the route (2800 m, 40 minutes from ABC).

Ascent Schedule

Ascent days, including processing days: February 10–24.

Time spent working on the route (hours) Time spent in bad weather during route work (hours) Route heights (m)

Section #	Number of protection points			UIAA symbol route MAP 1:2000	Section difficulty	Length (m)	Steepness (°)
	ZKA AA	SK AA	SHL AA
7	1	-	2		15	80	20
6	30 / 30	1 / 1	1 / 1		6A, A2	40	85
5	25 / 25	1 / 1	3 / 1		6A, A2	40	80
4	32 / 32	8 / 6	2		6A, A2	40	85
3	19 / 3	2	1		15 m — 5A, 15 m — 6A, A2	30	75
2	9	1	1		5A	40	60
1	32 / 4	5 / 3	3		5A	90	70
Section #	Number of protection points			UIAA symbol route MAP 1:2000	Section difficulty	Length (m)	Steepness (°)
:-------:	:--------------------------:	:-----:	:-------:	:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:	:---------------------:	:-------:	:----------:
	ZKA AA	SK AA	SHL AA
13	6 / 6	23 / 123	3 / 3		6B, A3	40	95
12	22 / 122	20 / 120	4 / 4		6B, A3	80	90
11	20 / 120	27 / 127	12 / 11		6B, A2	70	80
	10	10 / 3	-	-		5B	30
9	8	-	1		4B	40	75
8	27 / 18	2 / 2	2		5B	80	80
Section #	Number of protection points			UIAA symbol route MAP 1:2000	Section difficulty	Length (m)	Steepness (°)
:-------:	:--------------------------:	:-----:	:-------:	:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:	:---------------------:	:-------:	:----------:
	ZKA AA	SK AA	SHL AA
21	16 / 2	1 / 1	2	90019	5Б	40	70
20	18 / 49	4 / 4	2 / 2		5B, A2	30	75
19	42 / 37	8 / 8	2 / 2	KT3 90018 90019	6A, A2	80	80
18	5 / 5	-	1 / 1		6B, A2	7	95
17	20 / 5	4	1	90015 90016 22-24.02	5B, A1	80	80
16	14 / 4	2 / 2	2 / 2		6A, A2	20	80
15	30 / 30	4 / 4	1 / 1	90013 90014	6A, A2	40	75
14	9 / 9	5 / 5	2 / 2		6B, A3	15	100
Section #	Number of protection points			UIAA symbol route MAP 1:2000	Section difficulty	Length (m)	Steepness (°)
:-------:	:--------------------------:	:-----:	:-------:	:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:	:---------------------:	:-------:	:----------:
	ZKA AA	SK AA	SHL AA
25	-	-	-		15	750	3
24	5	-	-		3А	80	40
23	10	-	1		5Б	40	75
22	8	-	-		10 m — 2A, 50 m — 5А	60	70

Technical Photographs of the Route

The note from control point #3 (CP3) is missing.

According to the description, CP3 should have been located on R23 on a stationary bolt. The stationary bolt on R23 was found, but the CP itself was not. The group hypothesizes that: