South Eastern Caucasus
Route Description: центру левой части 3 стены
The second ascent of the Nekrasov route on the West face of Erydag in winter conditions, tactics and technique of the ascent, description of the route and recommendations for future groups.
- Class - winter
- Caucasus Eastern, Dagestan, Chekhychay river gorge
- Erydag via the center of the West wall
- Nekrasov's Route (86, Leningrad) - second ascent
- Height difference 480 m, length 530 m, sections of 5th cat. diff. 300 m, 6th cat. diff. 30 m, avg. slope 65°
- Pitons driven: | rock | nut | ice | bolt | | :--: | :--: | :-: | :--: | | 4/2 | 68/1 | 0/0 | 4/2+1 |
- Team's travel hours - 22, days - 4
Route Description: центру левой части 3 стены
Report on the ascent made by team "Bars" (St. Petersburg) to the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via a 5A category route in April 2023.
Climbing Report
To the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the left part of the 3rd wall (A. Nekrasov's route, 1986, 5A category of complexity) The route was completed on April 29, 2023, by the team of Alpine Club "Bars" (St. Petersburg):
- Nikolai Yakuba
- Denis Chetverikov
- Natalia Tsareva
Contents
- Climbing Passport — 3
- Route Description — 5
- Tactical Actions of the Team — 6
Route Description: левому канту 3 стены
Report on the ascent of rock route category 5B on Yarydag peak (4200 m) in the Caucasus in 1981.
ASCENT PASSPORT
I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area, ridge: East Caucasus 3. Summit, its height, ascent route: I-ya Zapadnaya Yarydag via left edge of Western wall (Polyakov's route) 4200 m 3rd ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 820 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 456 m, 6 difficulty category — 90 m, average steepness 78°. 6. Pitons used: for belaying: chocks 56, rock 108, ice 0, bolt 3. for creating artificial anchors: rock — IX, ice — 0, bolt — 0.
Route Description: левому канту 3 стены
Ascent to the summit of ErnDag (3925 m) via the West Wall, category III, complexity 5A, accomplished by a group of Moscow climbers in 1987.
ASCENT REPORT
I. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Eridag ridge, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Eridag, 3925 m, via the left edge of the Western wall (A. Polyakov's route, variation), rock climbing.
4. Category complexity 5B, second ascent of the variation.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m, length — 2165 m.
Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. — 453 m, 5th cat. diff. — 440 m.
Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°.
6. Number of pitons driven:
7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h 45 min.
Route Description: центру 3 стены через перья
Description of the first ascent of 5B category route through the center of the Western wall of the Yarydag peak via "feathers" in the Caucasus in 1984.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents 2. Caucasus, Eastern, Yarydag 3. Peak Yarydag, through the center of the Western wall via "feathers" 4. Assumed to be 5B category difficulty (first ascent) 5. Elevation difference of the wall part of the route — 530 m, length of the wall part of the route — 740 m (including traverses). Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°, including 6 category difficulty — 92° (95 m)
Route Description: центру 3 стены через перья
Climbing certificate for the ascent to Yerydag summit via Samoded route through the "feathers" on the Western wall (5B, 880 m, 1930 m) in Chekhchay gorge, Dagestan.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing class — rock (within the framework of the winter class of the Russian Championship)
- Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhychay gorge, Dagestan
- Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the Western wall through the "feathers" (Samoded route)
- Complexity category — 5B
- Height difference: — 880 m
- of which on the wall part of the route — 680 m
- total route length — 1930 m
- wall section length — 930 m
- of which 5th cat. diff. — 525 m
Route Description: центру 3 стены через перья
Description of the ascent route to Yarydag peak I-Western, 4110 m, via the left part of the Western wall with a complexity category of 5B.
RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ВАСПОРТ ВОСХОЖДЕНИЯ (third ascent)
- Class of ascent — rock.
- Region of ascent — Caucasus.
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- Peak, its height and ascent route —
Route Description: центру 3 стены через перья
Ascent to the summit of Yerydag (3925 m) via the center of the west face through the "feathers", category 5B, made in February 1994 by a team consisting of Bernitsky S.I., Kashewnik A.B., Lopatko A.D. and Khadzhinov S.V.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — rock climbing (within the winter category of the Russian Championship)
- Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhchai gorge, Dagestan
- Mt. Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the W. wall through "feathers" (Samoded route)
- Difficulty category — 5B.
- Height difference: — 880 m
- wall section — 680 m
- length of the wall section — 930 m
- of which 5th difficulty category — 525 m
- of which 6th difficulty category — 55 m
Route Description: центру 3 стены через перья
Ascent report on Yarydag peak via the center of the West face through the "feathers" rated 5B.
REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF YARIDAG PEAK (3925 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL THROUGH THE "FEATHERS" BY THE TEAM FROM KALUGA REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE
Team Leader: Filonov Yu.V.
Coach: Chernov L.A.
Kaluga, Lenin St., 5, Kaluga Regional Sports Committee
Team Leader: Filonov Yuri Vladimirovich, Obninsk, Kaluga region, Kurchatov St., 23, apt. 116.
Tel.: work 2-91-52, home 2-91-04.
Coach: Chernov Lionel Alexandrovich, Obninsk, Kaluga region, Lermontov Lane, 3, apt. 16.
Tel.: work 2-89-67, home 9-83-52.
Elevation data was determined using available copies of reports on ascents to Yaridag peak by teams led by Eifmov, Shchedrin, and Polyakov, as well as visually.
Route Description: правому внутреннему углу СЗ стены
Description of the ascent route to Yarydag I-West (4110 m) peak via the north-west wall, rated as category 5B-6.
56 p/p order No.498 28.10.1980 ASCENT PASSPORT
- Type of ascent — Rock climb.
- Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Yarydag ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Yarydag I West, 4110 m, via the right inner corner of the northwest face.
- Difficulty category — 5B–6.
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain — 880 m
- Average steepness of the face — 80°
- Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 723 m.
- Pitons used: