Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent area: Dagestan Mountains

  2. Name of the peak: Erydag (3950)

  3. Route name: via the left part of NW wall through the "mirror" (S. Efimov's route)

  4. Category of difficulty: 6A

  5. Route type: rock

  6. Height difference: 1254

    Wall section height: 1167 m. Route length: 2212 m. Section lengths: V category of difficulty — 200 m, VI category of difficulty — 762 m. Average steepness:

    • wall section — 78°
    • entire route — 45°
  7. Equipment used on the route/pitons used for artificial climbing (ITO):

    Pitons: 28 / 21; Ice screws 0; Drill pitons 42/14 (8 old, 21 removable, 10 sawn off); protection gear: 271/57; Skyhooks hole-type 28/28, relief-type 14/14; Fifas 140/135. Total ITO used: 269 points. Left on the route: Drill pitons 11 (8 old), sawn off 10.

  8. Leader: Polyenov Dmitry Yuryevich, CMS Team members: Polyenov Dmitry Yuryevich, CMS, Veiko Denis Vadimovich, CMS, Kirichenko Ruslan Sergeyevich, CMS, Krasnov Dmitry Yuryevich, CMS, Koltunov Oleg Sergeyevich, CMS, Nagaev Rustem Raisovich, CMS

  9. Belay location: Below the route

  10. Moving hours: 96 (including descent from the summit — 2 h)

  11. Start of ascent: February 15, 2007 at 9:30 Summit reached: February 26, 2007 at 17:30 Return to belay location: February 26, 2007 at 19:30

img-0.jpegwww.alpfederation.ruimg-1.jpeg Photo 1. General photo:

  • 1 — Shchedrin's route;
  • 2 — Efimov's route;
  • 3 — alternative route through the lower section from our viewpoint, considered safer;
  • 4 — Babitsky's route.

img-2.jpeg Photo 2. Wall profile.

img-3.jpeg Ascent graph (time to reach designated height).

img-4.jpeg Fig. 2. UYYA scheme.

img-5.jpeg Fig. 2a. UYYA scheme, continued.

Fig. 2b. UYYA scheme (end). Photo. Technical photo:

  • 1 — Shchedrin's route;
  • 2 — Efimov's route (completed by the group);
  • 3 — Babitsky's route. img-6.jpeg

Note from control point #2

Control point #1 was not found because the lower part of the route (about 200 m) was traversed 20–30 m to the right, for safety reasons. According to available data, the traversed variant is not inferior in complexity to the original and seems to us no less logical.

Control point #3 — no note was found, our note was left.

Control point at the summit — no note was found, our note was left.

img-7.jpeg Photo 4. R1, R2. Kirichenko leads, Nagaev, Veiko on the route.

img-8.jpeg Photo 5. R4. Nagaev on the route.

img-9.jpeg img-10.jpeg Photo 6. R14. "Mirror" (start). Nagaev on the route.

img-11.jpeg Photo 7. R15. "Mirror". Koltunov on the route.

img-12.jpeg Photo 8. R18. Cleft. Veiko on the route.

img-13.jpeg Photo 9. R30. Koltunov leads, Veiko on belay.

img-14.jpeg Photo 10. R32. Collapsed wall section. Nagaev working on hole-type skyhooks.

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