I. Climbing category — rock climbing

2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina

3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall.

4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category)

5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68°

6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251 — for creating belay stations: 28

7. Total climbing hours: 57

8. Five nights, one of which was sitting in a tent, and the rest were lying down.

9. Team leader: Kharinyak Ivan Vasilievich, Candidate Master of Sports

Team members: — Barsukov Valery Albertovich, Candidate Master of Sports — Bychek Alexander Mikhailovich, Master of Sports — Kuzmuk Valery Valentinovich, Candidate Master of Sports — Tsakanyan Oleg Semenovich, Candidate Master of Sports — Yatsko Vsevolod Stepanovich, Candidate Master of Sports 10. Team coach: Verba Alexander Andreevich, Master of Sports

II. Departure to the route on June 20, 1982. Return on June 25, 1982.

Shooting point – 1. Camera “Salut-S”, Lens “Tair-33”, F=300 mm.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt Yaridag I-western (4020 m) via the center of the left part of the NW wall, category 5B, by the team of UkrSoviet DSO “Burevestnik” led by Candidate Master of Sports Kharinyak I.V. From the village of Kurush, down the trail to the bridge over the river and then left-up under the wall of the Yaridag massif. The start of the route is to the right of the “reverse parabola”, which is the shape of a huge cornice in the lower part of the wall. At the top of the cornice, expanding upwards, begins a funnel-shaped niche of enormous size. The exit to the route is approximately under the left edge of the rock shelf, almost horizontal, located 30–40 meters from the base of the wall.

Up the approximately 80° wall, 50 m, to a shelf in its left part, where a crack begins. Left-up along the crack to a narrow shelf, along which 10 m to the left. Having passed a 5-meter wall, right-up along the shelf to a weakly expressed crack. Further 25 m up the crack to a shelf. From the shelf, left-up along a large crack, 50 m, to a cleft, along which 30 m to a 5-meter wall. We pass the wall left-up to a reverse crack, interrupted by a shelf in the middle. Along the crack, 35 m, to the next shelf, along which left to an arcuate crack. Along the crack, with an overhang in the upper part, to the division of the crack. Along the right crack, 20 m, right-up to a narrow ledge and along it 30 m to the right, 30 m up the wall to a shelf between the 1st and 2nd bastions. On the shelf under the rock cornice is a convenient overnight stay.

To the right of the site between two niches, 40 m up to a large internal angle, along which 80 m up to a huge niche. Further 50 m left-up to an even larger cup-shaped niche, to the left of which, left-up, 70 m along a steep shelf through a cleft to the division of the shelf. Along the upper shelf, left 20 m, to a crevice, along which 20 m up to a ledge. Further 60 m right-up, in places along the crevice, to a grotto. We pass along the wall to the left of the grotto to a shelf (10 m). Along the shelf, 20 m to the right, to a huge chimney with a plug (we do not reach 10 m). Right-up 50 m to the left of the chimney to a huge niche, which at the bottom turns into the aforementioned chimney. In the grotto (niche) is a convenient platform, but no more than 4 people can lie down.

Focusing on the cracks to the left of the grotto, 65 m along the wall, first left-up and then right-up, to the base of the upper, even larger grotto. Along the bottom of the grotto, 15 m, to an inclined shelf in its right part. Along the shelf, 10 m, to a crevice. Having passed 8 m along the crevice, we exit to a shelf, along which 15 m to the right, to a small crack. Further 20 m up to the left of the next grotto to a cornice above it. We pass a three-meter cornice in its left part along a crevice. Further 50 m up the wall to a shelf under the third bastion. Under the wall of the bastion is a niche, in it is a platform.

To the right of the platform, 40 m along the wall with a crevice up to a ledge, from which a crack begins. Along the crack, 15 m, to a chimney with a plug. Along it, 60 m, to a shelf, along which 30 m to the right, bypassing the “tower”. Not reaching the end of the shelf, along a chimney with an overhang, 10 m, between the wall of the tower and the crack to this crack. Along the “roof” of the crack, 5 m to the right, to the second chimney with 2 plugs. Along the chimney, 20 m — exit to a shelf. Here begins a step-like bastion of the summit: — 30 m under the wall of the next “step” — 35 m along the wall of the “step” (along a small crack) to a shelf — Along a 30-degree shelf, 15 m, to a 5-meter wall — After the wall, 50 m along the shelves to the right, to the lowering of the last “step” — Here 6 m to the shoulder of the summit, along which to the summit

Section R11–R12

Section Characteristics